The RunOut Podcast

The Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act (H.R. 1380) is a bipartisan collaboration before Congress that aims to establish rock climbing as a legitimate activity across all federal lands, and direct relevant federal departments to include language in their management policy that addresses rock climbing and the placement and maintenance of fixed anchors. What does this bill say and what does its implications mean for rock climbing in the future? We bring in Chris Winter, Access Fund executive director, to fill us in on his ongoing efforts to lobby on behalf of the climbing community. But first AB fills in Chris on some of the latest headlines in the climbing world, from April Fools faceplants to stealth edits on Chris Sharma’s ascent of Sleeping Lion. Last, we have some Buddy Spray, presented by Yeti and open only to those who support our podcast on Patreon. Ben Chipman sprays downs his friends and for this welcome bit of selflessness we’re giving him a Yeti Yonder. Show Notes Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act press release Read the bill Give money to the Access Fund April Fools: 8a and Climbing E-Grader Sharma Sleeping Lion news Bishop is moist

For our hundredth episode (has another podcast ever reached such a milestone?) we hosted a live conversation and Q&A with Tommy Caldwell for all of our RopeGuns, our supporters on Patreon. Join us if you’d like to support the show and be invited to our next live broadcast, whenever that is. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Is climbing photography dead? In an era in which everyone has an iPhone and now generative AI can create realistic photographic “content,” what role does a professional photographer play in 2023? We talk about these issues and more with one of the most successful climbing photographers and directors of all time, Corey Rich. Corey isn’t just a talented creative, he’s a smart and savvy entrepreneur who understands the business of creating photos and videos as well as anyone in the industry. And he’s also a good friend! But first, we chat about AB’s new film “Resistance Climbing,” which is now in theaters around the world as part of the annual Reel Rock 17 tour. The film captures a climbing community in Palestine, and we talk about how this kind of international climbing development often leads to some fraught questions about motivation and intention. Last, Hayden O’Shea pays homage to the late El Cap pirate, Ammon McNeely, and tells the story of joining Ammon on his first voyage back up the Big Stone after losing his leg. Show Notes Follow Corey Rich on Instagram. Get a copy of Corey Rich’s book “Stories Behind the Images.” Check out the trailer for Reel Rock 17 and find a show near you. Follow Hayden O’Shea on Instagram. Read “The Last Iconoclast: Ammon McNeely” Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Majka Burhardt is a professional climber, author, and mother of twins. Her new book is More: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood. We talk to Majka about the struggle to find that elusive balance while holding out hope for having it all. But first, Chris gets the bad news that he’s been fired from the show, and will be replaced with a host who has more followers on Instagram. (We will report anyone who points out how, of the two hosts, Chris is the one with more followers—never mind that!) This news follows on the heels of the outdoor industry shake-up that Eddie Bauer fired its entire roster of pro climbers. Eddie Bauer makes climbing you gear, you say? We had no idea either! Last, a rose for the bottom feeders of our latest bonus episode interview with the great French climber Antoine Le Menestrel. If you like what you smell, join us on Patreon.com/runoutpodcast. Show Notes Majka Burhardt MORE: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood Why Did Eddie Bauer Lay Off Its Whole Team of Professional Athletes? It’s Complicated. Climbing Freed: Chasing Antoine Le Menestrel Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Lynn Hill needs no intro. She’s best known as the individual who completed the first free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan, as well as the first person to free El Cap in a single day. The ascent broke gender barriers and progressed the sport. Today, Lynn is returning to the fundamentals, through a new video series that is designed to help climbers learn how to move as naturally, efficiently, and effectively as possible. We sat down with Lynn in her Boulder home to catch up with one of the sport’s absolute legends. But first we get in the weeds with Viet Nguyen, a controversial coder responsible for OpenBeta.io, which has the goal of developing climbing’s first open-source route database. We try to unpack what open source means, and why it will become the future of climbing guides and apps. Our final bit is the climber/surfer band, Wanted Noise, from San Diego, California. The track? Cruise Control. Show Notes Check out The Fundamentals of Climbing by Lynn Hill. OpenBeta.io The Future of Climbing Guides Must be Open Source on Evening Sends. Wanted Noise on Youtube. And @wantednoiseca on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Thomas Huber is one of the most accomplished and beloved climbers of all time. Along with his brother Alex, Thomas helped pave the way for modern free climbing on El Capitan with FreeRider, Golden Gate, and host of other first free ascents. He’s a Piolet d’Or recipient for his first ascent with Iwan Wolf of the north pillar of Shivling. And his new book is “In Den Bergen ist “Freiheit” — “In the mountains, There is Freedom.” (If you’d like to hear an extended bonus interview with Thomas, join us on Patreon to hear the full conversation, including what Thomas reveals about his relationship to Pitch 19. And if you have to ask, “Pitch 19 of what?” Then you really need to join us on Patreon and Become a RopeGun because you’re so far behind the conversation. ?) But first, we have a conversation with up-and-coming climber and comedian Bridget Epitropakis from Australia. She’s figured out how to fund her new climbing habit by murdering audiences in laugh clubs in Denver, CO, where she’ll be returning this year for another run of shows. Last, we finish with “Brothers & Sisters,” the latest single from Thomas Huber’s band, Plastic Surgery Disaster. Show Notes Follow Thomas Huber on Facebook. “In Den Bergen ist Freiheit” Follow Bridget Epitropakis on Twitter. Follow Plastic Surgery Disaster on Spotify. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

New Year, New Us. We connect for the first podcast of 2023, and Chris shares his aspirations of becoming a climbing warrior while Andrew is back on his usual bullshit of planning for another year of truly unimpressive mediocrity. Hazel Findlay comes to the rescue, with an inspiring conversation about her approach to mental training through her Strong Mind training program. She offers her wisdom on everything from what makes us all afraid to fall (and fail), to why Alex Honnold is, mentally, so special. Hazel reflects on her past year, in which she climbed 9a with Escalamasters, and established two remote big-wall first ascents in Greenland with Honnold, as well as battled lots of injuries. Be sure to check out StrongMind Climbing to register for Flight School, which is launching soon! Our Final Bit comes from one of the most talented and unsung figures in the climbing and photography world, Celin Serbo, who has somehow found time to compose original music in his free time. Show Notes Check out StrongMind Climbing and follow them on Instagram Of course, follow Hazel Findlay on Insta. And you may as well follow Celin Serbo too while you’re at it and check out his GarageBand-bedroom-project, Sancho. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

What’s the best way to belay with a GriGri? How should you build an anchor? Is that CE-certified piece of webbing really strong enough for real-world climbing? The internet has an opinion on this and more! Walk with us through the muck of know-it-alls offering their two cents on everything. Next, one of our favorite writers Jeff Smoot returns to the show to plug his new book All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing, and regale us with his own experiences in this darkest of dark arts. Last but never least, Madaleine Sorkin shares how her experience of sending the Hallucinogen Wall inspired her inner bard. Show Notes All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing, available from The Mountaineers or wherever you get books. Follow Jeff Smoot on Instagram. Check out episode #21 of The RunOut for our first interview with Jeff Smoot on his last book, Hangdog Days. Follow Madeleine Sorkin on Instagram Listen to our bonus interview with Madaleine by joining us on Patreon. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

We kick it with Alex Honnold, the rock climber who was once on 60 Minutes. He has even done a few other impressive things since then … you know, like free soloing El-fucking-Cap. It’s been a big year for Honnold, from traversing the polar regions of Greenland in search of a 4,000-foot unclimbed sea cliff while doing extreme climate science, to going deep into the pain cave on his epic HURT traverse in Red Rock, to nearly killing Magnus Mitbo, to perhaps, most importantly, becoming a dad. All while expanding his reach as media star. Honnold was gracious enough to come down off his perch and roll around in the muck with us podcasting lowlifes for a candid and fun conversation that traverses all the great things that we love about climbing, proving that he’s still a dirtbag at heart. To hear an extended cut of our interview with Alex Honnold, please support the show by becoming a Rope Gun on Patreon. But first, we attend to some unfinished business in the form of arbitrating, litigating, and otherwise conversing about booty. The “crazy girl” from our recent debate about booty’d gear writes in with her side of the story, and we formally submit her complaint into the record. Court’s in session and all the booty is on the line. Last but not least, we’re honored to share an excerpt from one of our favorite climbing podcasts in the world, the Jam Crack podcast with Niall Grimes. This interview excerpt with the great Ben Moon is not to be missed. Show Notes Alex Honnold in Greenland on National Geographic Alex Honnold’s HURT traverse Alex Honnold Free Solos with Magnus Mitbo Part one of the great booty debate, Runout #88 Listen to the whole JamCrack Podcast 112 with Ben Moon Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

We’ve got a double-header today with two amazing guests. Our first guest is Scott Johnston, a coach, trainer, and co-author of Training for the New Alpinism, with over 200,000 copies sold. Scott recently left his perch at Uphill Athlete to continue his work at Evoke Endurance. We talk to Scott about a healthier approach to training for comprehensive fitness, whether on the rock or in the big mountains. Next, we speak to Libby Sauter, a family nurse practitioner and trad climber who holds the women’s speed record on the Nose. She set that record in 2014 with Mayan Smith Gobat, clocking a time of 4:43. Libby took a big step back from speed climbing after seeing her dear friend Quinn Brett break her back while trying to beat her record. In the past few years, she’s been trying to start a family with her partner, but has suffered tragic loss many times over through multiple miscarriages. Libby shares the struggle of this journey honestly and openly, with the goal of influencing other female climbers and athletes to think about what it means to have it all. Our final bit today is some Buddy Spray for friend of the pod Wendy Williams, who, at age 48, just climbed the hardest route of her life. Show Notes Connect with Scott Johnston at Evoke Endurance and follow him and his team on Instagram. Training for the New Alpinism Libby Sauter on Instagram. Video: Libby and Mayan break the Nose speed record. Free (Donation-based) pregnancy and infant loss counseling Fertility Doctor YouTube The Turnaway Study: Cost of being denied abortions Wendy Williams: At 48, I tried everything. Here’s What Helped Me (Finally) Send. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com