The RunOut Podcast

Our guest today is Albert Ok, a YouTuber and speed-climbing coach. Albert goes by the handle Professor Ok, and creates content that breaks down movement. He tries to break climbing down into its most fundamental parts in order to best understand it. He’s also a talented speed climber, boulderer, and all-around athlete. But first, Andrew reports on a little local controversy from Chamonix regarding one of the most decorated alpine climbers of his generation who was prosecuted by an authoritarian politician, and what all of this means for the big thorny question of fixed gear in the mountains. Our final bit features the heavy psychedelic grooves of the band Pontiak. Show Notes Follow Albert OK on Instagram Subscribe to Albert Ok on YouTube Christophe Profit Found Guilty of Removing Safety Gear From Mont Blanc Follow Pontiak on Instagram and Spotify

This episode is a proper mix of silly and seriousness, as we talk to Mike Penney, director of the Ontario Alliance of Climbers, who is currently pushing back on the government’s regulations threatening access to 75% of Ontario rock climbing, and even going so far as to actively chop bolts from cliffs. This a big deal, and worthy of the climbing community’s attention and energy, even if you’re not from Canada. The cliffs of Ontario are in close proximity to many midwestern climbers and our friends up north need our support to help keep climbing across Ontario open. But first, Chris and Andrew look to Taylor Swift and her fans for inspiration on a hot new piece of gear that we predict will “change” the climbing nation — PUN INTENDED! Introducing the Walldies. You won’t want to miss them. Last, RunOut RopeGun Nick De Haas sprays down his buddy, for which he’ll be receiving a Yeti Yonder water bottle. If you have some Buddy Spray, join us on Patreon for details on how to submit your entry. Show Notes Help support the access fight for Ontario climbing here: https://climbinparks.ca/ Follow Mike Penney and the Ontario Alliance of Climbers on Insta. Ontario Crag Chopped by Land Managers

Luke Mehall is the publisher of The Climbing Zine, and the the creator of the Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. After America’s two most prominent climbing magazines either went under or went digital, the Climbing Zine now stands as an unlikely last remaining print vehicle for telling stories about rock climbing and dirtbag culture. We get into the future of print, the struggle in finding people willing to put in the work of writing about climbing, and the joys of living a creative life. But first, Kalous deviously baits one of the most annoying corners of climbing social media by posting a photo of his new favorite anchor: the Quad. The anchor dweebs of Instagram are predictably not happy. Last, a new Final Bit that you’ll have to hear to believe: Bend, Oregon’s own Billy and the Box Kid Show Notes The Climbing Zine Dirtbag State of Mind podcast Follow Luke Mehall, The Climbing Zine, and DSOM on Instagram Quad post #1. Quad post #2. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Savannah Cummins is a filmmaker, photographer, and all-around professional climber. We talk about some of her wildest expeditions to the farthest corners of the planet, dealing with injuries and medical malpractice, losing her partner in a tragic and freak accident in Mexico, and recently discovering a diagnosis that put all the pieces together for her. But first, we try to keep our heads above water as our favorite local climbing area closes due to a Biblical flood. Why does God hate sport climbing? Last, some Buddy Spray from RunOut Ropegun and Colorado College alum Tim Johnson, who encounters a climbing legend and Shaman of the animal kingdom one day out at the crags. For this, Tim will receive a Yeti water bottle. And if you’d like to submit Buddy Spray, you must support this podcast on Patreon. Show Notes Follow Savannah Cummins on Instagram Check out Sav’s film on El Gavilan Nolan Smythe accident report on Alpinist Read AB’s story about trying El Gavilan on Evening Sends Listen to Jeff Jackson on the Enormocast Read Hayden Kennedy’s “Day We Sent Logical Progression” Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

In an era of remote work and $200K Sprinter Vans, it may seem like the archetypal dirtbag of climbing lore is obsolete if not dead. Cedar Wright is on a mission, however, to keep it alive through a new program he’s starting to try to encourage young, stoked climbers to make the most of life by living on the least. But first, we dive into how Starlink is changing the climbing experience by keeping some climbers connected everywhere. How will this newfangled technology be welcomed in climbing areas where you could once remain blissfully offline? Our final bit features some studio music from friend of the pod, Black Diamond employee, great climber, and even better singer-songwriter Chris Parker. Show Notes Follow Cedar Wright on Instagram to learn more about the DirtBag fund and other Cedar adventures. Chris Parker on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #102: Christian Beckwith digs in to the 10th Mountain Division Our guest today is Christian Beckwith, a writer, podcaster, and co-founder of Alpinist Magazine and the Teton Climbers Coalition. His latest project is 90 Pound Rucksack, a historical podcast exploring the dawn of outdoor recreation in America through the story of the 10th Mountain Division. But first, the boys catch up after a run-in with some paparazzi at the Moab grocery store, and a few trips to the Creek with some fresh eyes for the power of rock climbing. Last, we’re psyched to share climber Harvey Merritt’s band Ponytails’ song, “Barbie and the Bam Bam.” Show Notes Christian Beckwith and 90 Pound Rucksack // Spotify // Apple Podcasts Follow Christian Beckwith on Instagram MeamsOfMoab on Instagram Steph Davis’ Indian Creek Crack Clinic Ponytails on Spotify Harvey Merritt on Instagram Ponytails on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

The Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act (H.R. 1380) is a bipartisan collaboration before Congress that aims to establish rock climbing as a legitimate activity across all federal lands, and direct relevant federal departments to include language in their management policy that addresses rock climbing and the placement and maintenance of fixed anchors. What does this bill say and what does its implications mean for rock climbing in the future? We bring in Chris Winter, Access Fund executive director, to fill us in on his ongoing efforts to lobby on behalf of the climbing community. But first AB fills in Chris on some of the latest headlines in the climbing world, from April Fools faceplants to stealth edits on Chris Sharma’s ascent of Sleeping Lion. Last, we have some Buddy Spray, presented by Yeti and open only to those who support our podcast on Patreon. Ben Chipman sprays downs his friends and for this welcome bit of selflessness we’re giving him a Yeti Yonder. Show Notes Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act press release Read the bill Give money to the Access Fund April Fools: 8a and Climbing E-Grader Sharma Sleeping Lion news Bishop is moist

For our hundredth episode (has another podcast ever reached such a milestone?) we hosted a live conversation and Q&A with Tommy Caldwell for all of our RopeGuns, our supporters on Patreon. Join us if you’d like to support the show and be invited to our next live broadcast, whenever that is. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Is climbing photography dead? In an era in which everyone has an iPhone and now generative AI can create realistic photographic “content,” what role does a professional photographer play in 2023? We talk about these issues and more with one of the most successful climbing photographers and directors of all time, Corey Rich. Corey isn’t just a talented creative, he’s a smart and savvy entrepreneur who understands the business of creating photos and videos as well as anyone in the industry. And he’s also a good friend! But first, we chat about AB’s new film “Resistance Climbing,” which is now in theaters around the world as part of the annual Reel Rock 17 tour. The film captures a climbing community in Palestine, and we talk about how this kind of international climbing development often leads to some fraught questions about motivation and intention. Last, Hayden O’Shea pays homage to the late El Cap pirate, Ammon McNeely, and tells the story of joining Ammon on his first voyage back up the Big Stone after losing his leg. Show Notes Follow Corey Rich on Instagram. Get a copy of Corey Rich’s book “Stories Behind the Images.” Check out the trailer for Reel Rock 17 and find a show near you. Follow Hayden O’Shea on Instagram. Read “The Last Iconoclast: Ammon McNeely” Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #98: More with Majka Burhardt RunOut #98: More with Majka Burhardt Majka Burhardt is a professional climber, author, and mother of twins. Her new book is More: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood. We talk to Majka about the struggle to find that elusive balance while holding out hope for having it all. But first, Chris gets the bad news that he’s been fired from the show, and will be replaced with a host who has more followers on Instagram. (We will report anyone who points out how, of the two hosts, Chris is the one with more followers—never mind that!) This news follows on the heels of the outdoor industry shake-up that Eddie Bauer fired its entire roster of pro climbers. Eddie Bauer makes climbing you gear, you say? We had no idea either! Last, a rose for the bottom feeders of our latest bonus episode interview with the great French climber Antoine Le Menestrel. If you like what you smell, join us on Patreon.com/runoutpodcast. Show Notes Majka Burhardt MORE: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood Why Did Eddie Bauer Lay Off Its Whole Team of Professional Athletes? It’s Complicated. Climbing Freed: Chasing Antoine Le Menestrel Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com