The RunOut Podcast

Lor Sabourin is one of the country’s top trad climbers, with ascents as hard as 5.14a on gear. They are a coach, a guide, and the subject of a new film called, “They / Them: One Climber’s Story.” We spoke to Lor about the film, and also got the low-down on the incredible route that we see Lor climb in the film. For today’s final bit, we’re serving you a tasty musical treat pulled from the catalog of Chris Kalous’ days as a member of the band Sector 7G. This song, which climbing-podcast aficionados will recognize as the outro music to the Enormocast, is called “Borrowed Time.” Sector 7G was one of those “you-had-to-be-there” bands of Carbondale, Colorado, funkadelic myth, but today their legend lives on. Please enjoy, happy thanksgiving to all who celebrate, and see you folks in December as we’ve got a ton of great guests and topics to discuss. Show Notes “They / Them: One Climber’s Story” Lor Sabourin on Instagram

Birthday challenge accepted: Chris Kalous manages to commemorate his big 50th birthday with a big day of climbing: 50 pitches at Indian Creek. After the soreness and cramps relent, we catch up and decompress about a day that was personally meaningful and resonated widely. Next, we catch up with Drew Hulsey, a climber and social work from Tennessee who is using his Instagram account to do big things and show the climbing world that this is a sport for everyone. We learn the amazing story of how Drew got into the sport, and how he balances his ambitions in a sport that can sometimes seem quite competitive. For our final bit, more buddy spray! If you want to shout out your buddy, you can become a RopeGun by joining us on Patreon. Show Notes Drew Hulsey on Instagram “Why We Go: Drew” Birthday challenge Bonus Episode of The RunOut Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

What was the first 5.15b in the US? With Matty Hong’s recent second ascent of Flex Luthor, which upgraded to 5.15b, we consider how this news shapes Tommy Caldwell’s legacy and what this means for our understanding of sport climbing. Nerd alert! Grade geekery ahead. … For our main bit, we speak with the esteemed Len Necefer about the restoration of Bear’s Ears by the Biden administration, as well as the potential danger of land acknowledgements. Len is a pHd. and assistant professor at the University of Arizona with joint appointments with the American Indian Studies program & the Udall Center for Public Policy. In addition, he is the founder & CEO of Natives Outdoors. But most folks will know him as the Meme God of the outdoor world, whose wonderful sense of humor on Instagram spares no target or topic. Finally, a bit of buddy spray—a new bit in which listeners tell us about their climbing buddy’s big sends. If you’ve got a buddy you want to spray about, you have to join us on Patreon as this is only open to Rope Guns. Photo: Tommy Caldwell on the FA of Flex Luthor in 2003. by Corey Rich. Show Notes Matty Hong sends Flex Luthor Climb Harder Just By Getting Older—like Tommy Caldwell Len Necefer on Instagram. Website. We Need to Reframe Why We Do Land Acknowledgments Biden Restores Bears Ears and Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monuments Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Chris Sharma makes his RunOut podcast debut to catch us up on what’s going on his busy life as a gym owner who just opened the biggest climbing gym in Barcelona, a TV show host, a father, and of course, sport climbing’s GOATiest GOAT. We dive into life, happiness, meeting Aquaman at Hueco, finding balance, the state of the sport, and future aspirations. And for our Final Bit, Lee Sheftel, local hero and friend, tickles the ivories and shares the secret of eternal youth. Photo: Portrait of Chris Sharma by Keith Ladzinski Show Notes Sharma Climbing gym HBO Max show announcement Chris Sharma on Instagram Lee Sheftel profile in the Daily Camera

Marc André Leclerc was one of the most reticent and enigmatic figures in climbing—a guy who few knew much about other than what what we learned from the second-hand reports emanating out of the alpine and describing his latest solo. Even the perpetually nonplussed Alex Honnold shuddered in fear and awe upon hearing some of what Leclerc had managed to climb. On today’s podcast, we are joined by the director and filmmaker Peter Mortimer, whose new film is The Alpinist, which tells the definitive and long-awaited story of Marc André Leclerc. Peter reveals some of the behind-the-scenes details about making this film, the honor of getting to know one of the most beguiling and talented figures of our sport in recent years, and ultimately, the pain of losing him to an avalanche right as the film was supposed to be wrapped. But first, we dive into a bolting debacle on Pike’s Peak and consider whether we’re in the final throes of these debates, or if we will continue to see the invocation of the Bachar-Yerian Fallacy as a way to perpetuate climbing’s most depressing pissing match. For our final bit, Aaron Glasenapp has a total eclipse of the heart. Show Notes The Alpinist film homepage and where to get tickets. Sender Films “From Climbing Partners to Bitter Enemies: In the Trenches of the Pikes Peak Bolt War” by Corey Buhay for Climbing.com Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance survey results The Case of Ten Sleep on Evening Sends. Watching the eclipse on the Grand Teton.

John Long needs no introduction—he’s climbing’s most prolific writer, Stonemaster, and a genre unto himself. He joins us to talk about his excellent new book, Icarus Syndrome, a collection of 19 essays that, in different ways, explore our strange compulsion to risk it all. After this deep literary dive, you might find yourself thinking, “You know what would be perfect right about now? A nice cup of tea.” The RunOut has got you covered! Hazel Findlay joins us from across the pond and gently guides us through the steps we must follow to make a proper cup of tea. If you’re listening on the free feed, you’ll hear us answer a question submitted by one of our Rope Guns. This excerpt came from an hour-plus-long AMA episode that was available to our Rope Guns on Patreon. For as little as $5.14 / month, you can become a Rope Gun and get access to full bonus episodes and the satisfaction in supporting your favorite climbing podcast. Show Notes Icarus Syndrome from DiAngelo Publications. Follow John Long on Instagram and Facebook. Hazel Findlay — Instagram Subscribe to Hazel and Mina’s excellent podcast: The Curious Climber Podcast

Who owns the rock? The answer is, obvi, no one … And yet some climbers sure seem to act as if they think they do. We dive into a discursive etiquette discussion after some Ten Sleep climbers hog up a rock climb all day long. Then, Jackie Hueftle, a legend in route setting and part of the team at Kilter, joins us to talk about the art of route setting. If you think route setting is just a matter of screwing holds onto a piece of wood, you’ll be surprised to learn how much talent and physical fitness is required to be a top route setter in the climbing world. Jackie also gives us her predictions on the Olympics, given that the route-setting team is all male. Finally, Raymon Bonner, a show listener, treats us to some original music on the “youk” (ukulele). If you’d like to submit your own idea for a Final Bit—a bit of music, a joke, fourth-wave feminist slam poetry, a surly rant—you can send in your idea to andrew@runoutpodcast.com. Show Notes Setter Closet “The History of Climbing Holds” by Jackie Hueftle for Route Setter magazine “Where are all the female route setters?” “Setting the Standard” — interviews with IFSC route setters at Gym Climber. The RunOut #65: Beating the GOAT — Check out our last episode for more about climbing in the Olympics.

Ah, the Olympics: the time when GOATs will be made just as GOATs will be beaten. Do we really need to keep referring to the Greatest Athletes of All Time as a bunch of smelly, stubborn animals? Perhaps that’s fodder for a different discussion, as today, we stand in awe of the 40 climbers who’ve earned their spot in the Olympics alongside our knowledgable guest, John Burgman. John is the JOCK—the Journalist of Climbing Knowledge—at least when it comes to all things competition related. John gives us a deep and thorough run-down of what to expect for climbing’s debut in the Olympics, while we learn the basics—namely, who Colin Duffy is. Kicking off the show, however, yer boys talk spray and the super spreader events that contribute to this epidemic of self-centered climbing culture (hint, it’s Instagram). Finally, Vancouver-based climber and musician Harvey Wright closes out our greatest episode of all time with his song “Be Kind to Yourself.” Show Notes John Burgman on Twitter “High Drama: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of American Competition Climbing” The schedule for when and how to see climbing in the Olympics Colin Duffy on Instagram Harvey Wright on Spotify. Crux: a documentary about Harvey Wright Enormocast 222: Harvey Wright — Heart Like an Ocean Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

We’re back with a hot take: Everest is OVER. The past season suffered from a COVID outbreak and a cynical authoritarian crackdown that even left some of Everest’s biggest cheerleaders with their pompoms down and deflated. Our main bit features the guy behind the Climberisms account on Instagram: Dylan Taylor, a routesettering at Touchstone Climbing in Los Angeles. Dylan’s puts the truth to what pro climbers might be thinking with his raw impersonations that he dubs over actual videos. From Daniel Woods to Adam Ondra, Sean Bailey to Alex Honnold, no one is safe from getting climberism’d. Our final bit is telegraphed in by the deep baritone of John Long reading an excerpt from his new book Icarus Syndrome from Di Angelo Publications. For the full story reading, become a Rope Gun today. Show Notes Follow Climberisms on Instagram Alan Arnette’s round up of Everest 2021.

Alex Johnson opens up about sieging her 10+ year project: The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, California. Her successful ascent earlier this year coincided with her 32nd birthday, and she first tried The Swarm as a 21 year old. This isn’t a story about how better training programs and more regimented diets pay dividends. For AJ, it took a lot of life and learning for her to summit this boulder. And now, she’s free. But first, we get ourselves into more trouble by revisiting the new Yosemite wilderness climbing permit regulations. As we hear from climbers in Yosemite facing this new reality, the regulations are revealing themselves to be more half-baked than we originally thought. So, where do we go from here? For today’s final bit, ever wonder what the world’s best alpinists talk about after getting done with a 30-hour push and drinking a beer? Jesse Huey and Quentin Roberts got you covered. SHOW NOTES Alex Johnson’s send post on Instagram. Follow: Jesse Huey and Quentin Roberts Access Fund’s post about the Wilderness Climbing Permits.