The Business of Fashion Podcast

Diana Pearl, a fashion journalist focused on runway coverage, and Kathleen Chen, BOF editor and industry commentator, dive into the turbulent relationship between fashion and real women's needs. They dissect controversial runway moments that many viewed as disrespectful, emphasizing a disconnect with actual women. The duo explores the intensified criticism stemming from financial pressures and the decline in body diversity, while also questioning how women creatives could reshape design. They advocate for structural changes that prioritize women's voices and better customer understanding.

Katungulu Mwendwa, a Kenyan fashion designer and founder of Katush, discusses her mission to build a contemporary African brand rooted in local traditions. Growing up in Nairobi, she was inspired by the city’s vibrant culture and craft techniques. Katungulu emphasizes the importance of making fashion locally, collaborating with artisans, and reviving traditional practices. She also addresses the challenges posed by secondhand markets, advocating for meaningful designs that last. Through Katush, she aims to create 'everyday armor' that becomes treasured pieces for years.

In this engaging discussion, Kat Chen, the Retail editor at Business of Fashion, explores the trendy concept of ‘third places’ in retail. She dives into how stores are reimagining themselves with seating and in-store cafés to enhance customer experience and community. Chen critiques the notion of using these spaces as mere sales tactics, emphasizing the importance of authentic connections over commercial motives. With insights into successful and failed attempts, she argues for the significance of low-pressure environments in cultivating genuine brand loyalty.

Tim Blanks, a veteran fashion critic and Editor-at-Large, reveals insights on the recent transformative fashion month. He discusses the highs and lows of new creative directors, spotlighting the universally acclaimed debut by Matthieu Blazy at Chanel. Blanks emphasizes the importance of time and empathy for designers navigating industry expectations. The conversation also touches on the polarizing reactions to shows by Jonathan Anderson and Pierpaolo Piccioli, highlighting the need for patience in assessing new artistic visions.

Join sports correspondent Mike Sykes, author of the Kicks You Wear newsletter, as he explores the exciting intersection of sports and fashion. Sykes reveals how the WNBA's player-driven culture fuels innovative brand collaborations. He discusses the NFL's shift from licensing to marquee partnerships with iconic brands. The episode dives into the impact of NIL on women's sports, reshaping players into distinct brands. Authenticity in collaborations is highlighted, stressing that genuine engagements are key for success in this fast-evolving landscape.

Join Kiki McDonough, a fifth-generation antique jewellery specialist and founder of her namesake brand, as she reflects on transforming the jewellery landscape since 1985. Discover how she embraced a can-do spirit in the '80s to make fine jewellery accessible to all. Kiki shares her journey of normalizing women buying jewellery for themselves and the enduring allure of colored gemstones. Learn about her strategies for designing easy-to-wear pieces that bring daily joy, and her thoughts on resilience and mentoring the next generation of entrepreneurs.

Daniela Morosini, a Senior beauty correspondent, shares her insights on the evolution of Gen Z beauty brands like Bubble, Starface, and Byoma. She discusses how these brands quickly gained popularity with playful packaging and engaging textures that thrived on TikTok. As Gen Z matures, the conversation shifts to the challenge of maintaining credibility while appealing to older consumers. Daniela also highlights the balance between youthful aesthetics and product performance, and the investor pressure to create lasting brands that resonate across generations.

Edward Buchanan, an American-born fashion designer and former Bottega Veneta design director, shares his journey from Ohio to the heart of Italian fashion. He reflects on his creative roots, the influence of New York's vibrant scene, and pivotal mentorship experiences. Buchanan emphasizes the importance of inclusivity in fashion, discussing the challenges faced by Black creatives in Italy and advocating for community building. He offers practical advice for young designers on honing technical skills and pursuing authentic narratives in their work.

Leigh Takanashi, a savvy reporter known for her insights on luxury consumption, joins Jessica Kwan, a Gen Z editorial apprentice with firsthand shopping experiences. They delve into how Gen Z challenges luxury brands, valuing resale and transparency over traditional price tags. Jessica shares her preference for thrifted finds, while Leigh highlights a growing skepticism towards luxury narratives. The duo discusses how brands must adapt to Gen Z's demand for authenticity and value, emphasizing the need for transparency and genuine connection.

Glenn Martens, the inspired Belgian fashion designer behind Y/Project, Diesel, and Maison Margiela, discusses the evolving landscape of fashion. He reflects on his formative years and the challenges that shaped his creative voice. Martens reveals how he redefined Diesel to restore its joyful spirit while advocating for deeper storytelling and craftsmanship amidst social media's superficialities. He also critiques the industry's fast-paced demands, comparing it to a 'Hunger Games' of instant judgment that overshadows the beauty of fashion as a process.