The Business of Fashion Podcast

The fashion industry is grappling with a crisis, as rising prices and quality concerns leave aspirational shoppers feeling alienated. The upcoming Fashion Week is filled with both excitement and anxiety, as designers face changing consumer perceptions. Technology's role in reshaping fashion is explored, alongside the clash between mass production and the demand for uniqueness. The podcast also discusses the importance of authenticity in branding and the delicate balance brands must strike between tradition and innovation during this transformative period.

Malique Morris, BoF correspondent, dives into the rise and fall of Ssense, a brand once celebrated for its indie labels and cultural edge but now facing bankruptcy. He explains how training younger shoppers to wait for discounts eroded its credibility with luxury designers. The discussion also highlights the challenges of maintaining a cool factor while attracting full-price customers and the impact on small brands relying on Ssense. With insights on leadership inertia and economic pressures, the conversation sheds light on the shifting landscape of luxury retail.

Clare Waight Keller, the versatile creative director of Uniqlo, shares her transformative journey through prestigious fashion houses like Gucci and Givenchy. She reveals how embracing discomfort fuels her creativity and growth. Clare discusses the evolution of female perspectives in fashion, her experience in various cultural contexts, and the challenges faced by women in leadership. With fresh insights on navigating the shift from luxury to mass-market retail, she emphasizes the importance of seizing opportunities and learning through challenges.

On her award-winning podcast “Articles of Interest,” host and producer Avery Trufelman dives deep into the stories behind the clothes we wear. From the evolution of prep to the origins of wedding dresses, Avery guides her listeners through the multi-faceted layers behind the aesthetics of fashion. “It's crops, it's the earth, it's handwork, it's culture, it's society. You tug on a thread and you get everything,” she said. “That's what I'm slowly realising [about fashion].”This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed sits down with Trufelman to discuss her path into podcasting, taking her lifelong passion for clothes and what they mean into an audio format, and what she’s learned about fashion along the way. Key Insights: A self-proclaimed “public radio nepo baby,” Trufelman has audio in her blood — her parents met working at New York Public Radio. But while she grew up with audio, she didn’t start experimenting with fashion until she was a teenager, expressing herself through quirky thrifted fashion ensembles, much to the confusion of her peers. “I knew in the back of my mind that it was too much, that I was sort of alienating people,” she says. “It just made me realise how powerful clothing was. That dressing in this wild way sort of set me apart.”Trufelman initially came up with the idea for “Articles of Interest” while interning at the design and architecture podcast “99% Invisible.” Presenting a fashion podcast to an audience more focussed on architecture, Trufelman began to see the ways in which fashion touched every facet of life. “In the beginning, fashion was sort of a dirty word for me,” she says. “Now it's all about fashion because everything has fashion. Buildings have fashion, cars have fashion, colours have fashion. Fashion is just taste over time and the most easy way to measure that when you look at a picture of any era, it's the cars maybe, but mostly the clothes.”Four seasons into “Articles of Interest,” Trufelman now finds herself with a rich archive to draw upon. “I don't ever kill stories. I love to reuse interviews that I collected years ago. I'm always cutting them up and revisiting them because I believe that knowledge isn't like one and done. It isn't a single use thing. I believe in making this a long sustainable living archive.” Trufelman also sees the parallels between podcasts and fashion in the ways in which both allow us to engage with the world. “People are listening to your voice while they're walking down the street and they're like noticing what people are wearing or they're noticing what people are doing. It's not undivided attention. It is divided attention. It's beautiful.”Additional Resources:The BoF 500: Avery TrufelmanRalph Lauren is Traveling Back in Time to Bring Back Preppy Chic Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Francesco Risso, former creative director at Prada and Marni, brings a unique artistic vision shaped by an adventurous childhood. He emphasizes the need for the fashion industry to slow down to rediscover love and craftsmanship in design. Risso shares insights on striking a balance between creativity and wearability while highlighting the importance of genuine collaboration. His journey reflects the essence of personal growth and transformation in fashion, underscoring the power of teamwork to push boundaries and reinvigorate creativity.

James Whitner, founder of The Whitaker Group and the brains behind A Ma Maniére and Social Status, shares his journey and insights into community-driven retail. He discusses the importance of empathy and intentionality in branding, prioritizing human connection over profit. Whitner reflects on his upbringing in Pittsburgh, highlighting the impact of socio-economic struggles on his perspective. He emphasizes building authentic relationships and nurturing Black culture, while also exploring sneaker exclusivity and its role in connecting communities.

In this discussion, Mike Sykes, a sports journalist with a focus on the intersection of sports and fashion, and Lei Takanashi, a correspondent covering sneaker trends, delve into the revival of basketball sneakers. They explore the shift from functional designs to fashion statements, driven by new player personalities like Anthony Edwards. The conversation highlights how recent innovations and a growing spotlight on female athletes, alongside nostalgic interest in retro styles, are reshaping the sneaker culture and market dynamics.

Sophie Soar, BOF Careers editor and co-author of the 2025 Careers Report, discusses the shifting landscape of fashion and beauty jobs. Employees now prioritize fair pay, career growth, and alignment with company values over traditional perks. With 45% of professionals seeking new roles, transparency in salaries and advancement is crucial for engagement. Soar emphasizes that hybrid work environments and fostered community connections can increase satisfaction. Trust in leadership regarding diversity and sustainability is essential for retaining top talent today.

Duran Lantink, a Dutch designer celebrated for his playful experimentation and innovative collections, discusses his unique journey in fashion. He reflects on staging his first runway show at just 14 and the transformative power of repurposed materials. Lantink shares exhilarating stories, including a wild night at a jazz festival after-party that shaped his artistic identity. As the new creative director at Jean-Paul Gaultier, he emphasizes embracing individuality and freedom in fashion, while highlighting the significance of upcycling and the creative community in overcoming industry challenges.

Sarah Kent, Chief Sustainability Correspondent, sheds light on the unsettling links between luxury brand Loro Piana and exploitative sweatshops. She discusses the systemic negligence in luxury supply chains, where profit often trumps ethical practices. Kent analyzes the growing scrutiny luxury brands face amid rising consumer demands for transparency and accountability. The conversation dives into the harsh realities of labor conditions in the fashion industry and the potential shifts in regulation that could reshape brand responsibility.