Gill Linton is the cofounder and curatorial persona behind Byronesque, a digital boutique department store that uniquely merges editorial content with a focus on contemporary vintage fashion. As editor-in-chief, Linton is a thought leader in the realm of editorial-based e-commerce and has long been a go-to brand strategist well-versed in the subculture of vintage fashion. Hailing from London, Linton divides her time between Paris and New York, collaborating with designers, consultants, editors, stylists, and other in-the-know individuals to reissue vintage finds and preserve creative brand histories. For her, it is essential to encourage people to be more thoughtful and slower when buying clothes—institute a cultural shift in shopping behavior.Episode Highlights: “The odd one out:” Born in London into a Scottish family, Linton got her start at M+C Saatchi, where she was able to pursue her passion for advertising, branding, and creating content. Serendipitous start: From her first job, she moved to BBC Radio 1, which was a state-run representation of youth culture. She was able to move into the fashion industry through a move to New York to work with the agency of entrepreneur Russell Simmons.  Brand evolution: Linton began in the fashion industry at a time when concepts like “brand heritage” weren’t considered in traditional marketing.  Bridging gaps: She cofounded Byronesque, set apart from traditional resale sites, to focus on “contemporary vintage” with a global network of vintage sellers and private collectors. Resale is the new fast fashion: increased volume and perpetuated ideas of buying and selling in the resale sector have led Linton, through Byronesque, to “encourage people to be a little bit more considered, slower, and to keep things for a long time.” Fighting flip culture: Byronesque believes the clothes it sells and stories it tells have more meaning than the mainstream gives them. Careful curation: Making Byronesque “a specialist environment” for vintage and “future vintage” of luxury brands, Linton has been authenticating, partnering with archive teams, and organizing concessions for luxury brands in an attempt to provide more agency and control over resale markets and brand image.  Reissuing vintage: Byronesque has reissued vintage finds from Helmut Lang, Vex Generation, Claude Montana, THREEASFOUR, and other brands that have been producing iconic items in decades past. Collector’s items in fashion: Her concern with keeping clothing as investment pieces drives a blockchain-based authentication process, and brings up the power of narrative and the importance of story. What’s contemporary now: Real talent, Linton says, and she hopes to see a resurgence of talent among a generation and in an evolved industry where that’s not always necessary. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Writer, editor, and creative director Thom Bettridge navigates the realms of storytelling, experience curation, and audience expansion with seasoned expertise. From editorial leader at 032c, Highsnobiety, and Interview to Head of Creative and Content at SSENSE, Bettridge has come a long way since his beginnings as a student of philosophy in New York City. His series of compelling statements showcase an impressive grasp of worldbuilding, adding context to the evolving landscape where editorial content and e-commerce converge. In an industry where magazines and retailers traditionally kept their domains separate, Bettridge’s approach to keeping consumers engaged signals a potential future trend for others. His insights reflect a shift toward a more integrated and dynamic relationship between content creation and commercial endeavors. Bettridge has seen—and been behind—much of the changes to the fashion industry as it enters an inundated era obsessed with viral moments. His connectedness to contemporary culture is only rivaled by his closing remarks: that true contemporariness might be found in uncharted, offline territories. Episode Highlights: After becoming interested in art criticism via philosophy studies, Bettridge started an art space in Medellín, growing attracted to the fast-paced evolution of Colombian culture and society.  On interning and moving up through the ranks in New York: “That was my idea of hell. So I wanted to go somewhere where I could make more of an impact even if it was an uncertain terrain.”  Noting that “the only two things that were still alive and kicking when I finished school were fashion and, like, tabloids,” Bettridge explains how he came to fashion through his love of magazines and editing them.  The solitary nature of writing didn’t suit his personality, and Bettridge found he enjoyed editing more, with creative direction being an extension of that kind of collaboration. “360 control over how a story looks and appears”: Creative direction was never a target for Bettridge, who considers it more of a byproduct of writing and editing—what he was already doing—and born of necessity along the way. His first foray into magazine editing was at 032c, where he gained firsthand experience observing creative direction before moving on to Interview.  Considering philosophy as a way of creating and applying systems, Bettridge sees an analogy in being a storyteller adept at making connections.  Coming to SSENSE as the company was nearing its 20th anniversary, Bettridge leaned on the experiences of the people who had been at the company for a long time. Bettridge has a strong understanding of brand DNA, pushing the company further into its “anti-nostalgic, anti-heritage” heritage.  “Mind-share”: Bettridge’s creative process aligns naturally with SSENSE’s ability to tap into a young, digitally native generation, which communicates via social media. Using a metaphor of a hotel with a great coffee shop, Bettridge expresses the relationship between editorial content and e-commerce, where content regularizes exposure to a company and signals what it’s about.  To cater to a younger generation, Bettridge notes that youth culture demands that brands be good storytellers that tap into the current social and political moments.  Old-school print magazines tell stories through image placement (much like Instagram), but in a way, that decisively marks a certain zeitgeist, which Bettridge says somewhat outlasts the neverending inundation of social media. Bettridge remarks on learning that intuitively marked anchors within a magazine or brand’s vision create cohesion and that visual storytellers are the individuals most capable of creating brands with palpable foundations or clear identities.  What’s contemporary now? The potential for offline culture, a culture that “isn’t solipsistic or self-isolated.” Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Renowned photographer of the Antwerp Six, Willy Vanderperre is a Belgian-born image-maker best known for his campaigns for Prada, Dior, and Jil Sander, as well as publications like i-D, Another, or W. Longstanding creative collaborations with fashion icons like Raf Simons, Olivier Rizzo, and Peter Philips have informed his creative output over the decades and renewed his lasting interest in what youth cultures have to continually offer the older generations. Vanderperre has made himself an industry staple over the past twenty-plus years through his illustrious photography, which includes his project Naked Heartland and a book series that cleverly connects analog publishing to the new forms of media consumption. But his experience doesn’t make him feel old. In fact, he continues to tap in—in his life and in the contemporary conversation—into the energy that youthful voices bring to fashion in a creative and lifelong practice that mirrors how he approaches long-term industry collaborations and pervades his images: with a sense of renewal, expression, and movement. Episode Highlights: “A rather difficult place to be”: Growing up gay in Belgium to a hardworking family (and a father who was a butcher), Vanderperre felt the “smallness of the country” and says he was saved by art school and the sensitive people he came into contact with there.  Aspirational: Because of his upbringing, Vanderperre quickly found a drive to escape his origins.  An introverted country: Vanderperre sees Belgium’s history and small geography as drivers of the country’s production of artists and designers.  Looking differently at a garment: Vanderperre’s photographic work stands out among fashion images because of his preoccupation with and sensibility for capturing movement.  Normalcy: While a big-city feeling feeds a feeling of glamor, Vanderperre celebrates a sense of rootedness in his origins and having peers outside of the fashion realm, a situation of social solitude that he likens to COVID quarantining.  Contemporary publishing: Translating ephemeral social media into the “analog product” of a book, Vanderperre put his book together quickly, almost instantly, much like an Instagram post.  “The right thing to do”: His book on Instagram was driven by his love of youth culture—its accessibility, efficiency, and unpretentiousness. Vanderperre’s obsessions with youth, isolation, and the redemptive power of pop culture can be summed up by how impressed he is by outspoken young people disconnected and connected by expressive forms like music and movies in the internet age.  Never growing up: Vanderperre is one of the first modern generations to see themselves as having a different aging and cultural trajectory from their parents, and more able to choose whether they wanted to become “adults.”  Contemporary politics: Youth have positively shaped the world, particularly in the past five years, but Vanderperre has partnered with the Trevor Project to support LGBTQ+ rights. Long-term relationships: Close collaborations with Raf Simons, Olivier Rizzo, and Peter Philips have been challenging, presenting opportunities for growth.  Fluidity: While the industry has changed in the past 20 or 30 years, it doesn’t feel all that different to Vanderperre; he approaches it with new energy and different emotions and enjoys the influx of new voices. What’s contemporary now: “This conversation.”   Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Derek Blasberg, a dynamic force in the worlds of fashion and media, boasts a multifaceted career as a writer, editor, and a New York Times bestselling author. Previously YouTube’s head of fashion and beauty and director of public figures, Blasberg transformed the platform, earning praise from industry luminaries like Tom Ford. His influence extends to the Gagosian Gallery, where he spearheaded the relaunch of Gagosian Quarterly and collaborated with renowned image makers, especially in celebrating the life and work of legendary American photographer Richard Avedon. After his 2023 Gagosian landmark exhibition Avedon 100 in New York, Blasberg follows with the launch of Iconic Avedon: A Centennial Celebration of Richard Avedon in Paris on January 22, 2024. A graduate of NYU with degrees in dramatic literature and journalism, Blasberg comments on his journey from Vogue assistant to front-row favorite, underlining his extroversion, passion for the fashion industry, and the importance of never saying no—and that’s what’s contemporary.Episode Highlights: Sweet nostalgia: Blasberg remembers his upbringing in St. Louis, Missouri, as typical and all-American, but not one that facilitated a knowledge of fashion from the get-go. Surrounded by manuscripts: With a mother who was the managing editor of a medical journal, Blasberg had his first connection to documents and texts through medicine and later as a prolific note-passer at school.  Contrasts: “I had a fundamental lack of understanding or loose grasp of the fashion industry, as I now know it today,” Blasberg says. Beginnings: Being predigital but a natural extrovert, Blasberg found an agency and advocated for himself, with his first foray into the fashion world writing biographies for models, later working for Vogue and W magazines.  Hired and fired from Vogue: Blasberg calls it an educational process and experience, even though managing and assisting “was probably not the best fit for me.” The evolving role of the journalist: Though the traditional writer role doesn’t exist in the same form it did two decades ago, Blasberg sees the ability to express oneself in written language as more important than ever.  Do readers exist?: Regardless of form, people may not be reading but are still consuming content and “still curious what people have to say and what they have to write,” Blasberg notes. Bazaar Models: Blasberg’s books explore successful models and muses in a form that fuses literature, journalism, and sheer curiosity about the lives of talents. Man About Town: Blasberg has a unique freedom and independence in navigating the fashion industry, which he sees as a result of open-minded optimism.  Perspective as a “trader in culture”: Blasberg notes that live streams, online and resale marketplaces, and influencer culture are ways in which the fashion industry, in particular, has changed over the course of just the last few years.  Full-circle moment: A career highlight is the Paris centennial celebration of Richard Avedon, Blasberg’s childhood hero.  Driven by passion: Inspired by icons like Richard Avedon and Marilyn Monroe, Blasberg’s work at the Gagosian Gallery is unique in its capability to portray other elements of culture and history, such as the Civil Rights Movement. His enthusiasm for the subject matter shines through.  What’s contemporary now: For Blasberg, it’s never saying ‘no.’ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Creative consultant and iconic figure Amanda Harlech has played a key role in fashion for decades. Harlech is recognized for her insightful, ultra-collaborative approach, her influential work with brilliant designers, and her mentorship of young designers. She initially joined forces with John Galliano in the ’80s and ’90s before later joining Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel. For her, creative sensitivity and a willingness to work are facilitating forces in an industry that she sees as evolving in a more collaborative direction. Though she surprisingly calls herself not quite “a fashion person,” Harlech’s prolific career has shaped parts of contemporary fashion design and showcased her intuitive understanding of creative storytelling. Illustrating a unique narrative of artistic connection, Harlech notes that the enduring allure of craftsmanship is what’s contemporary now. Episode Highlights: Creativity and make-believe: Harlech has vivid memories of being surrounded by storytelling and fashion, which were emphasized in her life from an early age by those around her. “It’s a way of navigating life:” Weaving fictions and working with fantasy is how Harlech has always sourced creative inspiration, from childhood collaging to designing gowns. Career trajectory: Harlech went from working at Harper’s Bazaar and The Face to working with Galliano, a collaboration she calls “so powerful.”  Collaboration rather than competition: Harlech found Galliano’s designs emotionally powerful, and their active collaboration is contrasted with a more passive one while working with Karl Lagerfeld for 27 years. She discusses collaborating with Andrew Bolton for the most recent Met Gala in celebration of Lagerfeld.  Collaborative evolution: While Lagerfeld, for instance, directed teams based on his genius, Harlech notes that contemporary labels tend to create entire creative communities wherein designers all bring something unique to the garments. Creative sensitivity: Harlech’s intuitive understanding of a collection’s intention and rhythm has propelled her throughout the years.  “I am this undefinable thing:” Surprisingly, Harlech says, “I’m not really a fashion person, although I love the whole creative process that goes into a collection.” She describes herself as a facilitator above all else, synthesizing creative energies among the many individuals any collection or shoot requires.  Other forms of collaboration: Enjoying how mentorship “switches the light on” in her head, Harlech brings her know-how to the energy and willingness of Central Saint Martins students. Progress and its countermovements: Discussing AI’s ever-increasing role in creative design, Harlech takes a positive stance, remarking on the emergence of support for and dialogue with the hands-on, artisanal work that goes into design.  What’s contemporary now: Harlech takes the question in a mythical direction with ancient myth and ritual, paying homage to “the old ways, the skill of making, craft.” Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Trailblazing South African fashion designer Lukhanyo Mdingi's brand story is as distinct and vibrant as the fashion he creates. From early influences of pop culture in the Eastern Cape to the launch of his post-graduate show, Mdingi's journey is a testament to the power of visibility and mentorship in the fashion industry. Winning the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2021 and the Amiri Prize in 2023 bolstered his eponymous label's global presence and solidified vital industry connections; it also revealed the systemic challenges faced by brands emerging from developing countries. Yet, despite these challenges, he affirms his brand will remain in South Africa, articulating a strategic approach to building a regional direct-to-consumer model, recognizing the potential for growth and revenue generation, and instilling a sense of empowerment within local infrastructure and craftsmanship. A key focus for Mdingi is collaboration: His partnership with the Ethical Fashion Initiative and his label's work with South African artisans highlights the unique, rich histories and the particular needs of regional communities and markets. By nurturing homegrown success while keeping an eye on the global horizon, Mdingi thrives in a dynamic industry, wittingly weaving together talent, purpose, and the transformative potential of fashion. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Brendon Babenzien, a fashion entrepreneur with roots in the skateboarding and alternative music scene, shares his journey from Supreme to Noah. He discusses his creative direction focused on building a well-intentioned business. The podcast touches on the significance of finding strength and community outside of mainstream culture, consumer behavior and creating change, the challenges of contemporary values, achieving work-life balance, and exploring the resonance of new values in a post-pandemic culture.

Movement director Pat Boguslawski reflects on his journey in this latest episode, citing a unique artistic trajectory. Boguslawski has always been sure of his career as an artist throughout his upbringing in Łódź, Poland, fueled by pop culture, film, and fashion shows. Coming to dance—which he immediately perceived to be the most expressive art form he could pursue—and then moving to London to find an outlet for that passion, Boguslawski came to his current role, shaping the fashion shows of his childhood heroes, like John Galliano and Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton, through a mixture of serendipitous encounters and hard work. Boguslawski’s breakthrough as a movement director occurred during the 2020 Margiela show, where Leon Dame’s viral walk marked a rule-breaking moment. He emphasizes the irreplaceability of artistic experiences that originate in ordinary life, and as a movement director, he navigates the everyday challenges of instilling confidence in inexperienced individuals. His love for the constantly evolving, interdisciplinary nature of his work shines throughout the episode, revealing a passion that combines modeling, dancing, directing, and acting. With sobriety as a grounding force, he cherishes the magic, presence, and drama inherent in the collaborative artistry of fashion and movement together.Episode Highlights: Upbringing: Born in Poland, Boguslawski spent his childhood developing his imagination by watching music videos and movies and keeping up with pop culture through MTV, VH1, and FashionTV.  A new way of expression: Though he was sure he would be a painter or designer, he came to dance at a friend’s urging and found it to be a more expressive and social artistic practice. An international move: Boguslawski moved to London into an “extreme” situation, without a job or a solid plan except to pursue his dream of dance. Balance between serendipitous luck and willpower: Boguslawski came to London intending to be a dancer and was scouted as a model and then championed by Alexander McQueen Creative Director Sarah Burton. “Strong attitude”: He had a breakthrough moment as a movement director in 2020 at the Margiela show when Leon Dame walked in a particular way and went viral. “I realized that we probably broke some rules.” “Weird energy”: Boguslawski realized he was meant to be a movement director while working as a creative assistant for a choreographer. “Magic and presence and drama”: He expresses a feeling of privilege that he’s part of Galliano’s creative vision, which was part of his childhood dream. Unrepeatable: Boguslawski notes that if he’s watching a fashion show, he wants it to feel singular and to be something he couldn’t experience or re-create in his daily life.  Creating confidence: The greatest challenge is being confronted with models who have low confidence or little experience, and in that way, creating confidence for movement is “like therapy.”  Burnout: Speaking to creatives’ need for time to sit around and do nothing, Boguslawski reflects on times when the more jobs he did, the less creative he could be. Loving the job: The constant fluidity and change of clients and the interdisciplinary nature of the work keep him loving his line of work, which merges modeling, dancing, directing, and acting.  Sobriety: Because his body is so closely tied to his work, sobriety helps Boguslawski bring “the best energy” to his job. “I’m not cracking,” he says of aging. What’s contemporary now? It’s “being a good human.” Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Graphic designer Ruba Abu-Nimah discusses the impact of punk rock and hip-hop on her creative journey. She challenges the value of formal education, emphasizing the importance of art school. Abu-Nimah explores the power of youth rebellion and democratizing art, drawing inspiration from Andy Warhol. She shares insights on the balance between digital and analog craftsmanship, while reflecting on the significance of travel and cultural diversity in shaping her artistic perspective.

Gordon von Steiner is a force of youthful creativity and talent in the world of fashion film. In this episode, Christopher Michael sits down with von Steiner to discuss how the recent Grammy nominee—for directing Troye Sivan’s showstopping music video “Rush”—honed his passions into a creative practice from a young age and evolved as an artist in tandem with changes to the fashion, art, and culture industries. Raised in Toronto on cinema classics by filmmakers such as David Lynch, Pedro Almodóvar, and Woody Allen, von Steiner moved to New York to attend NYU’s prestigious Tisch School of the Arts. After an internship with GQ, he spoke to a friend at the artist agency Art & Commerce to seek advice on what to do next. It was through that conversation that he ultimately found a champion for his work in legendary photographer Steven Meisel, who catapulted his innovative work in fashion film at a critical cultural moment onto platforms like Vogue and W Magazine. He discusses what it’s like to fulfill your childhood dreams: For him, it’s been fueled more by excitement than intimidation, finding validation in the process of coming up with concepts, carrying them out to completion with friends and collaborators, and resonating with audiences who admire the emotional appeal of his visual storytelling.Episode Highlights: Early cultural experiences: von Steiner knew from an early age that he would pursue cinematography and remembers the childhood joy of visiting the Toronto Film Festival yearly to watch new releases like Punch-Drunk Love and Lost in Translation.  Diversity for creativity: Though von Steiner counts filmmakers like Pedro Almodóvar, Woody Allen, and David Lynch among his early inspirations, it was the variety and cross-genre nature of his interests that inspired him to make films for himself. Cross-genre performing arts: “More than anything else, there’s a signature style of movement to my work,” von Steiner says. “That’s something I’ve subconsciously developed over the years, often through dance.”  “A rewarding filmmaking experience”: von Steiner’s most recent success is a Grammy nomination for his direction of the music video “Rush” for Troye Sivan, an affirming project that merged a passion for telling queer stories with his talent for fashion film. A healthy relationship to work: Hands-on experiences at GQ and Vogue were fun and high responsibility; he felt comfortable with his creativity at a moment when the film industry was changing rapidly to cater to the evolution of social media platforms. “This is the future”: Industry greats like (“What’s Contemporary Now” guest) Nick Knight inspired von Steiner to channel his experimental thinking into new aesthetic mediums, using Vine for Vogue, for instance, or working at a time when cultural momentum shifted from YouTube to Instagram, longform films to shorter video clips.  A big break: von Steiner found a champion of his work in acclaimed fashion photographer Steven Meisel around the same time he started working with Vogue. He speaks of the critical importance of having a mentor who believes in you to support your efforts. The validation is in the work itself: In crafting a trilogy of videos for Sivan, von Steiner says “the joy and the pleasure of coming up with an idea,” along with working with friends to create something emotionally evocative and lasting, is something that can be seen and felt in the final product.  Short attention spans: von Steiner notes that being unaware of how people are receiving your film is a huge risk. Playing to the medium (usually of videos viewed from phones) is essential to keep in mind.  Outside of social media: He tries to step away from social media and engage with film, books, and theater to keep his mind alive to find new inspiration. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices