Graphic designer Ruba Abu-Nimah discusses the impact of punk rock and hip-hop on her creative journey. She challenges the value of formal education, emphasizing the importance of art school. Abu-Nimah explores the power of youth rebellion and democratizing art, drawing inspiration from Andy Warhol. She shares insights on the balance between digital and analog craftsmanship, while reflecting on the significance of travel and cultural diversity in shaping her artistic perspective.

Gordon von Steiner is a force of youthful creativity and talent in the world of fashion film. In this episode, Christopher Michael sits down with von Steiner to discuss how the recent Grammy nominee—for directing Troye Sivan’s showstopping music video “Rush”—honed his passions into a creative practice from a young age and evolved as an artist in tandem with changes to the fashion, art, and culture industries. Raised in Toronto on cinema classics by filmmakers such as David Lynch, Pedro Almodóvar, and Woody Allen, von Steiner moved to New York to attend NYU’s prestigious Tisch School of the Arts. After an internship with GQ, he spoke to a friend at the artist agency Art & Commerce to seek advice on what to do next. It was through that conversation that he ultimately found a champion for his work in legendary photographer Steven Meisel, who catapulted his innovative work in fashion film at a critical cultural moment onto platforms like Vogue and W Magazine. He discusses what it’s like to fulfill your childhood dreams: For him, it’s been fueled more by excitement than intimidation, finding validation in the process of coming up with concepts, carrying them out to completion with friends and collaborators, and resonating with audiences who admire the emotional appeal of his visual storytelling.Episode Highlights: Early cultural experiences: von Steiner knew from an early age that he would pursue cinematography and remembers the childhood joy of visiting the Toronto Film Festival yearly to watch new releases like Punch-Drunk Love and Lost in Translation.  Diversity for creativity: Though von Steiner counts filmmakers like Pedro Almodóvar, Woody Allen, and David Lynch among his early inspirations, it was the variety and cross-genre nature of his interests that inspired him to make films for himself. Cross-genre performing arts: “More than anything else, there’s a signature style of movement to my work,” von Steiner says. “That’s something I’ve subconsciously developed over the years, often through dance.”  “A rewarding filmmaking experience”: von Steiner’s most recent success is a Grammy nomination for his direction of the music video “Rush” for Troye Sivan, an affirming project that merged a passion for telling queer stories with his talent for fashion film. A healthy relationship to work: Hands-on experiences at GQ and Vogue were fun and high responsibility; he felt comfortable with his creativity at a moment when the film industry was changing rapidly to cater to the evolution of social media platforms. “This is the future”: Industry greats like (“What’s Contemporary Now” guest) Nick Knight inspired von Steiner to channel his experimental thinking into new aesthetic mediums, using Vine for Vogue, for instance, or working at a time when cultural momentum shifted from YouTube to Instagram, longform films to shorter video clips.  A big break: von Steiner found a champion of his work in acclaimed fashion photographer Steven Meisel around the same time he started working with Vogue. He speaks of the critical importance of having a mentor who believes in you to support your efforts. The validation is in the work itself: In crafting a trilogy of videos for Sivan, von Steiner says “the joy and the pleasure of coming up with an idea,” along with working with friends to create something emotionally evocative and lasting, is something that can be seen and felt in the final product.  Short attention spans: von Steiner notes that being unaware of how people are receiving your film is a huge risk. Playing to the medium (usually of videos viewed from phones) is essential to keep in mind.  Outside of social media: He tries to step away from social media and engage with film, books, and theater to keep his mind alive to find new inspiration. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Editor-in-chief of Interview magazine, Mel Ottenberg, wants to maintain a sense of fun in an atmosphere rife with fear. Previously creative director at 032c, he’s collaborated with an impressive roster of stars, high-profile clients, and photographers. In this episode, he shares his take on where we are in this cultural moment and how fashion, beauty, and style can be powerful vehicles for communication and social transformation. He highlights some of the influences that have shaped his aesthetic—MTV, The Cock, the downtown scene, and Vogue—and the icons who fueled him as an aspiring creative in the 90s, such as Madonna and Arianne Phillips. Teeming with energy and ideas, he found ways to connect his work in the indie and pop celebrity spaces, and with Interview, he found the perfect platform for his diverse experiences and an outlet for cheeky, unfiltered output. What’s contemporary now? “Fear and loathing is truly the most contemporary thing now. It’s totally gross. It’s totally real, and I think confidence and an open spirit of change is the only way past that.” Episode Highlights: Fashion forward: Mel sees clothes and style as vehicles to channel people, cultural sensibilities, and change. Formative influences: Mel was shaped by the 80s and its dress codes, Madonna, MTV, Vogue, and the downtown NY club and arts scenes. Finding inspiration in the multidimensional visual artist Arianne Phillips. Fusing styles: Working in both indie and mainstream celebrity spaces. At the intersection: Becoming editor-in-chief of Interview magazine aligns everything in Mel’s eclectic career. Status check: Publishing has evolved since Mel’s formative years and has been reshaped by the emergence of digital media and new approaches to branding. Embracing opposites: Playfulness, camp, and a general sense of high-low fun emblematic of Mel’s style and sensibility—in the pages of Interview and beyond. Blending voices: Why Mel deliberately infuses Interview—initially conceived by young rule breakers—with a youthful energy that sharpens his own Gen X lens. Embracing messiness:  Interview’s independent format protects artistic freedom and content that isn’t perfectly polished or orchestrated. Risk-taking is part of the mandate. Daring to be unfiltered: With the current political and social climate, Mel speaks authentically despite pressures to be packaged and guarded. Cancel culture: The cultural pendulum swings between self-censorship, nihilism, optimism, intrigue, and despair. Hyper-veneer and hyper-raw: What feels like reality (versus the algorithm) in the diversity of style, beauty, fashion, and identity narratives that coexist today. What’s contemporary now? Fear, the 80s, and younger generations calling out and challenging fear and repression. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Quil Lemons is a photographer and artist renowned for his innovative contributions to commercial and fine arts spaces. As a Black queer creative force, he defies labels and uses his work to authentically represent the multifaceted aspects of his identity. The youngest photographer to capture Vanity Fair’s cover (featuring Billie Eilish), Lemons is featured in The New Black Vanguard: Photography between Art and Fashion, as well as in many other publications, including Garage, i-D, and W. Recently, he debuted his first solo show, Quiladelphia, in the Hannah Traore Gallery. Lemons’s work extends beyond capturing images; it is a form of activism and storytelling that pushes boundaries and challenges societal norms. He is reshaping narratives around authenticity and sexuality, and fostering open dialogues within the LGBTQ+ community. In this conversation, Lemons shines light on how he’s breaking barriers in the industry, celebrating Black queer masculinity, and blazing a trail for Black artists. He shares his secret sauce for creating one’s reality and changing one’s industry. What’s Contemporary Now? A utopia. A vision of a world with no pain.Episode Highlights: Surrounded by art: Attending Julia R. Masterman was a formative part of Quil’s adolescent years. Going on to attend the Charter High School for Architecture and Design in Philadelphia, art and creativity have always surrounded him. Champion of authenticity: Quil has been a champion of authenticity from a young age, constantly questioning what adults thought and deciding to go against the grain of society. “How am I going to beat the odds?” was always his guiding motto. Empowered by femininity: Raised by strong Black women, Quil viewed women and femininity as fragile, yet powerful and beautiful. Race, gender, and privilege: Quil believes that, in comparison to Black men, white men often have a privilege when it comes to sexuality and self-expression (such as fashion). Quiladelphia: Through photography and raw conversation, Quil sought to change the entrenched notions of Black masculinity, family, queer sexuality, race, intimacy, and beauty. It showcases his fight to exist. Sex positivity and sex work: Quil wouldn’t be able to make art if sex workers weren’t part of the conversation. He speaks on porn and OnlyFans as integral parts of the queer community, as well as catalysts for changing the narrative around nudity, sexuality, shame, and even HIV. Family feedback: “I grew up pretty Christian on my mom’s side and pretty Muslim on my dad’s side, and so it was a family full of religion,” Quil says. “But they came to the show, and they loved it. They loved where I’m at and my journey as a person and that I am unafraid and I don’t give a fuck what anyone has to say about what I’m doing with my life because it’s my own.” Feeling different: Quil pushed himself to be vulnerable, which he believes is the whole point of being an artist. Watching his community support him gratifies and motivates him to keep going. Editorial vs. commercial: Quil loves infiltrating traditionally white spaces with his fully authentic self. “Watch me do all of these spaces because there is no limitation on my creativity and where my art could go,” he says. Changing the industry: The rules of the fashion industry are changing. “The New Black Vanguard” is changing the industry. It doesn’t come without pushback, but Quil is pushing forward to keep the fashion industry evolving. The secret sauce to creating your reality? Quil is blissfully unaware of negativity, he’s goal-oriented, and he knows there’s always a way around a “no.” To be successful is to be delusional. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Vanessa Friedman has been the fashion director and chief fashion critic at The New York Times since 2014. Her lauded insight as a critic balances both the courage to speak to reality and a responsibility to inform her readers. Working at the intersection of culture and news journalism, Friedman has seen the landscape of the fashion industry change dramatically in the last decade. In this episode, she gives an honest and authoritative account of the state of fashion, speaking to hurdles that must be addressed in sustainability, production, and creativity in an age of short attention spans and ever-shortening fashion cycles. She discusses the new role of sports in the world of luxury branding, bringing a historical perspective to conversations around elitism and accessibility. Advising emerging journalists to find a unique voice, Friedman herself is always on the lookout for what’s truly new, bringing to fashion journalism a willingness to be surprised. She hopes what’s contemporary now is the kind of open-ended dialogue she conveys in her approach to fashion criticism.Episode Highlights: “A serendipitous error”: Friedman didn’t know early on that she was setting out to work in culture and journalism, but instead came to fashion naturally over time. A critical framework: As a fashion critic, “I’m not interested in expressing my gut feelings to others,” Friedman says. “It’s not ‘Do I like that? Do I think it’s cute?’” Friedman sees fashion as a way of communicating within the broader contexts of historical traditions.  Intersections: Friedman sees fashion as a malleable art capable of tethering to any element of culture. As a critic at The New York Times, Friedman’s work exists at a particular intersection between fashion, culture, and news journalism.  The last decade in fashion: She’s seen fashion transform from a niche artistic experience into an industry that informs how a wide range of communities (such as the realms of athletics and politics) express ideas and positions. The constant flow: In the last few years, Friedman’s seen the pace of fashion change, with the traditional seasons speeding up to provide consumers with a continuous flow of products.  Evolving ideas of luxury: The most successful modern brands—like Nike—lure customers with both goods at more accessible price points and higher-tier, elite items.  Sustainability: Friedman discusses the need to rein in the scale of production, rethink materials, and overhaul practices on a global level. “I don’t think anyone, certainly no major brand I’ve talked to, has really come to grips with that.”  Real, and not real: Friedman comments on a growing tendency to not trust fashion imagery in light of filters, the ubiquitousness of surgical treatments, and changing beauty standards. The role of a critic: She sees her role as one that requires both courage and a sense of responsibility, considering her work a beacon that her readers use to wade through the white noise of mass media. New vs. more: Friedman distinguishes between what adds “more” to the world of fashion and what adds something truly “new.” Newness is more creative, and it “does take thought, it takes experimentation, it takes making mistakes,” she says. Capturing attention: In what Michaels calls an attention deficit economy, Friedman advises emerging journalists to have a unique point of view and an individual style without relying entirely on that voice. What’s contemporary now: It’s listening and engaging in open-ended dialogue. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

London-born photographer and SHOWstudio founder Nick Knight has remained at the forefront of what’s contemporary since his emergence into the fashion photography scene in the 1970s. Over the course of an illustrious career, Knight has worked closely with the likes of Alexander McQueen, Lady Gaga, Bjork and John Galliano, as well as with fashion houses such as Christian Dior, Tom Ford, Louis Vuitton, and Yves Saint Laurent, among many others. Bringing an outsider’s insight into the fashion and art worlds, he began pushing boundaries in the ’80s in collaborations with i-D magazine and revolutionary designer Yohji Yamamoto. He has directed the trailblazing fashion film platform SHOWstudio for over two decades, pioneering new modes of artistic expression and audience connection. In a thoughtful conversation with Christopher Michael, Knight reflects on how he maintains a sense of artistic integrity and urgency—with or without the validation of commercial success. His hunger to continue to learn has driven not only a varied career spanning music, art, and fashion through the lens of the camera, but also kept him at the forefront of technological innovation, whether with SHOWstudio or a riveting perspective on AI—comparing it to the birth of photography and the internet—and how we will evolve.Episode Highlights: Trial and error: Coming to photography after a failed attempt at becoming a doctor, Knight found that following his natural talent led to success and a sense of fulfillment. Working with restrictions: For Knight, starting out with just a few rolls of film, natural curiosity, and “with your back to the wall” was the perfect learning opportunity. A creative upbringing: Growing up amidst the countercultural revolution of the 1960s, Knight produced early work that delved into provocation and followed his obsessions. Led by his fascinations: Knight used his photographic practice as a means for exploring unfamiliar subcultures, realizing that fashion wasn’t just the catwalk but coded into the social worlds of the clubs and dancehalls. “Music was my way in”: Working with stylist Simon Foxton, Knight found his introduction to the world of fashion through music and art. “Mind-blowing”: Taking cues from revolutionary designer Yohji Yamamoto’s 1980s collections, Knight was riveted by the idea that fashion—and photography—could be based on the soul rather than the sexuality of the body. Refusal to be referential: Knight rejected photography as a fascination with the body and articulating instead an obsession with the mind, producing an aesthetic paradigm fit for a new generation of artists “outside the system.” Innovation and newness: Knight continually modernized fashion and photography, guided by his talents and fascinations at critical technological junctures. Best of both worlds: Seeing fashion photography as lacking in the ability to capture the fundamental movement of clothing, Knight explored the invention of fashion film. Perspectives born of necessity: Knight saw fashion photography and filmmaking as two distinct practices that could be combined to inform one another. “An uplifting moment of freedom and experimentation”: With the rise of the internet, Knight was free to do the work he loved outside the system and in new mediums Commercialization of fashion: What had previously been an art form evolved into a lucrative form of business with the rise of Vogue and Anna Wintour. Guided by passions: Knight saw SHOWstudio as a rethinking of the magazine format at a critical moment when the internet allowed a reproposal of how we see—and who sees—fashion. “It wasn’t that we just wanted to do something differently. We just wanted to do something that was exciting.” Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

When we first asked the question, “What is contemporary now?” we thought it made sense to explore the makings of culture by tapping into the varied perspectives of creatives whose work has helped shape the contemporary landscape. This season sees that dream continue, having the chance to speak to a master on the intersection of technology and image making and a brilliant young artist on the recontextualization of queer black culture. We explore how creatives lead successful luxury brands and even tap into the important role of the critic as a lighthouse amidst oceans of information. Subscribe now for new episodes starting Monday, November 13 with Quil Lemons, Vanessa Friedman, Mel Ottenberg, Ruba Abu-Nimah, Brendon Babenzien, Willy Vanderperre, Amanda Harlech, Gordon von Steiner, Robin Galiegue, Thom Bettridge, Nick Knight, and many more. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

British makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench has been challenging our perceptions of beauty and creativity for the past decade. She attributes her unconventional approach to beauty, one that escapes commonality and mainstream aesthetics and paves the way for bold innovation, to her family’s background in engineering and problem-solving. Spurred by a face painting side hustle, her nontraditional rise in the industry saw her take on pivotal creative roles—such as brand ambassador, creative director, and global beauty director—for luxury brands, such as Tom Ford, YSL, Christian Louboutin, Burberry Beauty, Byredo, and today, beauty curator for Off White. In 2022, she launched her makeup brand, ISAMAYA, an evolving line of progressive beauty products entrenched in the zeitgeist. In this episode, Isamaya shares with Christopher Michael her perspectives on cultivating creative audacity and innovation in beauty. Some may consider her work subversive, yet she sees it as contextual and impulse-driven—LIPS, the brand’s penis-shaped lipstick, was influenced by conversations around gender and sexuality. What’s contemporary now? Isamaya believes it’s time for people to acknowledge and accept that having a different opinion, preference, or approach is okay. “Just leave people alone and let them get on with their lives.”Episode Highlights: Creative audacity: Isamaya attributes her creative edge and audacity to her upbringing—having grown up in a family of engineers and creatives. Penis-shaped lipstick: Isamaya is often driven by impulse; she’s very receptive to what’s happening around her, so it’s no surprise the discussions around gender, nudity, and sexuality have indirectly influenced her work. However, more than anything, LIPS was a logical decision. Global beauty director: Is it challenging working for brands? “It’s about having different experiences,” Isamaya says. Although she values the creative freedom of having her own brand, she enjoys the collaborative aspect and various parameters of working with other brands. Side hustle: She worked her way up from face painting to semiprofessional body painting to makeup artistry. Product design: Isamaya describes her love/hate relationship with product design and how it is a part of her path to success. Favorite clients? Junya Watanabe and Tom Brown—to name a few. Isamaya looks for a strong sense of self and a willingness to push creative boundaries when partnering with designers or brands; to find new territory while maintaining a concise brand aesthetic and philosophy. Advice: “If you’re passionate about something and you want to do it, do it. You only live once!” What’s next? Collaborations, new makeup collections, and a documentary about global beauty aesthetics and ideals. What’s contemporary now? “Just leave people alone and let them get on with their lives.”  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Fashion journalist, writer, and broadcaster Tim Blanks has had a front-row seat to many defining, pivotal moments in the fashion industry since 1985. Throughout his prolific career, he has witnessed countless transformational trends, with his byline appearing in international magazines and newspapers, including Vogue, GQ, Financial Times, Fantastic Man, and Interview. Previously, host of the globally syndicated television show Fashion File for a 20-year stint, he was as well editor-at-large at style.com. Today, he is editor-at-large of Business of Fashion and a celebrated author and contributor to various monographs and volumes on fashion royalty, such as Anna Sui, Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen, and Michael Roberts. In this lively conversation with Christopher Michael, he contextualizes trends related to everything from branding and sustainability to creative talents and human needs, which attract people to the art of fashion. Tim's insights reflect a unique perspective on the industry's evolution and a deep, intuitive understanding of the vulnerabilities and desire for validation that drive even the most successful industry icons. Although Tim celebrates the fault lines he sees redefining today's fashion landscape with new inclusive language and geographic diversity, he also spotlights global issues such as social and environmental justice, prompting a reckoning of sorts within the fashion industry—and the world at large. Ultimately, it's all about keeping creatives relevant in an era of turbocharged change and adaptation. Episode Highlights: Starting out: Starting university at age 15 helped him evade bullying and launched his experience of making “all those mistakes that change your life.” Connecting with fashion: Tim’s limited exposure to fashion while coming into adulthood in New Zealand when he realized images had the power to shock or amaze. First rung: A detour into filmmaking in Canada eventually morphed into freelance writing and, ultimately, a full-time gig at a fashion magazine and a high-visibility role hosting the global TV show Fashion File. Staying fresh: Keeping something of an outsider’s perspective has helped blunt any cynicism about the fashion industry. Inside-outsider: The curiosity—and an eye inspired by filmmaking—has defined Tim’s unique approach to fashion’s personalities and untold stories. Reflecting and projecting: Fashion has a dual role as a mirror of culture and a harbinger of social trends on the horizon. Community of misfits: Tim believes fashion has historically drawn outsiders, agitators, and visionaries into a tribe bound by creative energy. A circus. A roving family! Human longing: The “hole in our soul” Tim believes we are constantly trying to fill or offset with validation from our peers—an impulse at odds with how social media actually makes us feel. Stand-out moments: Witnessing an interview in which LouLou de la Falaise was the translator for a reluctant Yves St. Laurent; 90s runway shows that were cultural high points, including spectacular shows featuring Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Christian Lacroix; and getting the opportunity to talk to Helmut Lang for the first time. Assessing AI: Tim believes that ChatGPT and other machine learning could create informational bridges and—with good intent—positive, beneficial results. At odds: The challenge to reconcile environmentally wasteful “gigantism” and corporate sustainability in the billion-dollar corporate branding and production world. What’s contemporary now? Simmering rage, confusion, chaos, fear, an urge to fight, and a puzzlingly benign (rather than punk) attitude in fashion in contrast to the climate crisis, political unrest, and pandemic fallout. What should be contemporary now? A revolutionary spirit to fuel change, even at great lengths. It’s time for idealism coupled with pragmatism, expressing itself in action—with fashion playing a part. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Bestselling author and podcast host Gabby Bernstein believes unresolved trauma negatively impacts our lives and deprives us of the ability to connect. Gabby, one of the "soulful thinkers" featured on Oprah's Super Soul Sunday, explores the importance of doing the work to be present to each other—and foremost ourselves—amidst the noise and alienation found everywhere in today's world. In this episode, she explains to Christopher Michael wounding left untended is at the root of toxic emotions like alienation, anger, and judgment. She shares her own experiences with traumatic dissociation and drug addiction and her practices and path to wholeness. Highlighting ways to combat hypervigilance, diffuse "impostor syndrome," and lean into reconnection with our bodies, she stresses that even the most mindful among us will always be a work in progress. What's contemporary now? "A trend toward well-being and a concerted effort to get out of our bubbles, seeking stability through connection."Episode Highlights: Friendly vs. hostile: Gabby believes that the problems in the world arise from poor choices made from a place of unresolved childhood trauma. Common ground: Shared core beliefs founded in love and compassion enable us to work and live with people with different views. Objective reality: Unresolved childhood wounding often appears in projection forms that invite our curiosity and self-compassion (along with boundaries). See it, be it: Manifestation is about clearing beliefs, fears, or insecurities that hold us back from assuming the energy of what we truly desire. Analysis paralysis: A closer look at Gabby's journey to transparency, vulnerability, and authentic truth as a vehicle for connection.  Gabby's path: She turned away from a life as a nightlife publicist, numbed her painful trauma with drugs and alcohol, and went on to embrace sobriety and honesty. Walking the talk: Holding space for and witnessing the transformation of others—particularly women she has sponsored— has been healing for Gabby.  Doing the work: Gabby uses therapy and other tools to combat impostor syndrome or feelings of emptiness that crop up—no matter how successful we are. The control trap: Living in safety is the best way to heal hypervigilant nervous systems, including through modalities. Being present: Gabby finally feels fully alive and attuned to her body and is no longer shut off to mental and physical connection. Creating connection: For those who have experienced complex trauma, creating connection is a long, slow process of gently thawing dissociative reflexes without triggering panic. (recommended reading: "Happy Days: The Guided Path from Trauma to Profound Freedom and Inner Peace.") ; For those struggling with everyday life's stresses, grounding practices, movement practices, and meditation to center, calm, and help visualize healing and well-being. Words of wisdom: "When we learn how to explore and change our minds about the world we see, then our experience (and our experience of our experience) of the world changes accordingly. And that mental shift is miraculous!" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices