Bande à part

We discuss the ways clothes feel versus the way they look, and Autograph’s brilliant Omar Victor Diop exhibition. See links below. Fanshawe mantua at Museum of London (1753): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/85096.html Lynn Sorge-English, Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810 (2011): https://www.routledge.com/Stays-and-Body-Image-in-London-The-Staymaking-Trade-16801810/Sorge-English/p/book/9781138661424 Daniel Miller, Mukulika Banerjee, The Sari (2008): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-sari-9781847883148/ Honoré-Victorin Daumier, De l'utilité de la crinoline pour frauder l'octroi (1857), Art Institute of Chicago: https://www.artic.edu/artworks/84651 Omar Victor Diop at Autograph (2018): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/liberty-diaspora Omar Victor Diop website: https://www.omarviktor.com/ Omar Victor Diop interviewed for Paris Photo (2016): https://vimeo.com/190321094 Omar Victor Diop at Design Indaba (2017): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auWl6z733O4 Arpita Shah at Autograph: https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/purdah-the-sacred-cloth Arpita Shah website: http://arpitashah.com/

We discuss the mesmerising exhibition of Frances Upritchard’s work at the Barbican, and enjoy the multi-layered references in Simon Grennan’s book Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval. See links below. Francis Upritchard: Wetwang Slack (2018): http://sites.barbican.org.uk/wetwangslack/ Francis Upritchard at Kate Macgarry: http://www.katemacgarry.com/artists/francis-upritchard/ Hammer Projects: Francis Upritchard (2014-2015): https://hammer.ucla.edu/exhibitions/2014/hammer-projects-francis-upritchard/ Mackenzie Stevens, An “Unruly Material: Balata in Francis Upritchard’s Practice (2014): https://hammer.ucla.edu/blog/2014/12/an-unruly-material-balata-in-francis-upritchards-practice/ Tessa Giblin, The Borrowings of Francis Upritchard (2017): https://christchurchartgallery.org.nz/bulletin/187/the-borrowings-of-francis-upritchard In Conversation: Peter Pilotto (2016): https://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/the-style-report/2016/11/the-statement-issue/in-conversation-peter-pilotto-amex-francis-upritchard-collaboration Fenberger House: https://www.fenbergerhouse.com/ The Pruitt-Igoe Myth (2011): http://www.pruitt-igoe.com/ Simon Grennan, Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval (2018): https://www.bookworks.org.uk/node/1943 The Marie Duval Archive: http://www.marieduval.org/ Le Diable à Paris (about second edition): https://blog.paris-libris.com/gavarni-granville-le-diable-a-paris-paris-et-les-parisiens-a-la-plume-et-au-crayon-2/

We discuss two exhibitions that opened in London this week: Anni Albers at Tate Modern and Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs at the Fashion & Textile Museum. See links below. Anni Albers, Tate Modern, London: https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/anni-albers Stiftelsen Almgrens Sidenväveri & Museum, Stockholm: http://www.kasiden.se/english-summary/ Paridise Mill and The Silk Museum, Macclesfield: https://macclesfieldmuseums.co.uk/ Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs, Fashion & Textile Museum, London: https://www.ftmlondon.org/

We consider the wonders of menswear prompted by Murnau's 1921 film Schloss Vogelöd and discuss the V&A Museum’s current Frida Kahlo exhibition. See links below. Fritz Murnau (director), Schloss Vogelöd (1921): https://www.murnau-stiftung.de/movie/812 Antony Beevor, The Mystery of Olga Chekhova (2005): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/54988/the-mystery-of-olga-chekhova/9780141017648.html Roberta S. Kremer (ed), Broken Threads: The Destruction of the Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria (2006): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/broken-threads-9781845206604/ Frida Kahlo exhibition, V&A (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/frida-kahlo-making-her-self-up Museo Frida Kahlo, Mexico: http://www.museofridakahlo.org.mx/en/the-blue-house/ Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Friday Kahlo Museum, Mexico City (2012 – 2013): https://judithclarkcostume.com/exhibitions/appearances-can-be-deceiving-the-dresses-of-frida-kahlo/ Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/6gICPDLcNAzkJA Georgia O'Keeffe: Living Modern, Brooklyn Museum (2017): https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/georgia_okeeffe_living_modern Conformismo e trasgressione: il guardaroba di Gabriele d'Annunzio (1988): http://booksinprogressmilano.tumblr.com/post/157952827051/il-guardaroba-di-gabriele-dannunzio-conformismo

We devise the Bande à part Manifesto of acceptable approaches to fashion design based on our observations of the current collections. See links below. Chromat Spring 2019 RTW on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/chromat#collection Pyer Moss: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/pyer-moss#collection Derrick Adams: http://www.derrickadams.com/ Matty Bovan: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/matty-bovan#collection Dries Van Noten: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten#collection Marc Jacobs: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs#collection Dice Kayek: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dice-kayek#collection

We discuss the hidden diversity of interwar London and the wonders of Art Smith’s Modernist jewellery. See also links below. Evelyn Waugh, Vile Bodies (1930): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/57050/vile-bodies/9780141182872.html Marc Matera, Black London: The Imperial Metropolis and Decolonization in the Twentieth Century (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520284302/black-london Black Chronicles (NPG/ABP project 2016): https://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/blackchronicles/explore/autograph-abp Christopher Reed, 'A Vogue That Dare Not Speak its Name: Sexual Subculture During the Editorship of Dorothy Todd, 1922–26', Fashion Theory (2006): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270406778050996 Patrick Elliott and Sacha Llewellyn, 'True to Life: British Realist Painting in the 1920s & 1930s' (2017): https://www.nationalgalleries.org/shop/all-books/national-galleries-scotland-books/true-life-british-realist-painting-1920s-1930s-exhibition-book Hearts magazine: http://heartsmagazine.net/ Art Smith @ Cooper Hewitt: https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/people/18049319/

We discuss the Kevyn Aucoin documentary and various makeup styles we’d like to try. Plus, why are there so many documentaries now? Links to some of what we talk about below. Lori Kaye, Kevyn Aucoin: Beauty & the Beast in Me (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6972670/ Lottie Winter on Kevyn Aucoin (2017): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/who-is-kevyn-aucoin-everything-you-need-to-know Way Bandy: https://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/15/obituaries/way-bandy-makeup-artist-and-best-selling-writer-dies.html Visage, Fade to Grey (1982): https://youtu.be/UMPC8QJF6sI David Bowie, Ashes to Ashes (1980): https://youtu.be/CMThz7eQ6K0 Sandy Linter, Disco Beauty (1979): http://sparklearmy.com/blog/?p=287 Jennifer Lopez, Waiting For Tonight (1999): https://youtu.be/_66jPJVS4JE

We talk about the appeal of buying clothes from catalogues. See links below. Marshall & Snelgrove catalogue, 'The Visits of Veronica' (1929): http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/mol-77-150-39 Kays catalogues: https://www.worc.ac.uk/discover/world-of-kays-website-charts-20th-century-fashions%20.html

We discuss the significance of costume in Otto Preminger’s film Bonjour Tristesse (1958). See also links below. François Sagan, Bonjour Tristesse (1954): http://www.francoisesagan.fr/4.aspx Otto Preminger, Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ Saul Bass title sequence: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VyfxT7CzB94 Photos by Lionel Kazan taken during the filming: https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-culture/fashion-books/diaporama/lionel-kazan-remembers-the-filming-of-bonjour-tristesse/34055

We discuss department stores we have known and loved. Kaufhaus Weyrauch: https://www.kaufhaus-weyrauch.de/historie/ Morleys Brixton Department Store: https://www.morleysbrixton.co.uk/about-morleys/ Bon Marché Department Store Brixton: https://thedepartmentstore.com/history/ Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (2008): https://tinyurl.com/y83uz547 Emile Zola, The Ladies' Paradise (1883): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/the-ladies-paradise-9780199536900 John Guillermin (director), The Crowded Day (1954): http://www.screenonline.org.uk/film/id/1408156/index.html William Wyler (director), Mrs Miniver (1942): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035093/