Bande à part

We discuss the new exhibition at the Fashion Space Gallery at London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx, curated by White Line Projects. See links below. Fashion Space Gallery, London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx (8 Feb to 5 May 2019): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/mundo-latinx/ White Line Projects: http://www.whitelineprojects.com/ Lucia Cuba (official website): http://www.luciacuba.com/ Ada Alti, ‘Articulo 6 Project by Lucia Cuba’ Trendland (10/03/2013): https://trendland.com/articulo-6-project-by-lucia-cuba/ Lucia Cuba (interviewer) and Mauricio Delfin (video), ‘We have woken up’, interview with Aurelia Paccohuanca and Micaela Flores (January 2012): https://vimeo.com/42281777 Lucia Cuba and Eduardo Delgado (camera & edition), Articulo 6 (2013): https://vimeo.com/41995578 Ciudadaniasx, Proyecto Artículo 6 de Lucia Cuba (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANAVwIKFfyk Lauren Cocking, ‘Photography as Catharsis: An interview with Chiapan photographer Diego Moreno’, The Culturetrip (12 December 2016): https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/mexico/articles/photography-as-catharsis-an-interview-with-chiapan-photographer-diego-moreno/ Diego Moreno, ‘In my mind there is never silence’, Photographic Museum of Humanity (10/06/2016): https://phmuseum.com/DiegoMoreno/story/in-my-mind-there-is-never-silence-d136bf1e79

We wonder about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below. Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): http://www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/ Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic' (2018): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashioning-brazil-9781350026605/

We discuss the recent sale of Catherine Deneuve’s Yves Saint Laurent clothes, and wonder about the values and meanings attached to vintage fashions. See links below ... Catherine Deneuve et Yves Saint-Laurent [sic], Christie's, Sale 17514, 24 January 2019, results: https://www.christies.com/catherine-deneuve-et-yves-28219.aspx Jess Cartner-Morley, 'Catherine Deneuve is selling her Yves Saint Laurent wardrobe - but that look will never go away', The Guardian (15 January 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jan/15/catherine-deneuve-is-selling-her-yves-saint-laurent-wardrobe-but-that-look-will-never-go-away AnOther, 'Catherine Deneuve Sells $1 Million Worth of Yves Saint Laurent Couture' (25 January 2019): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/11444/catherine-deneuve-sells-1-million-worth-of-yves-saint-laurent-couture Rencontres Couture à Paris de la Collection Didier Ludo, Sotheby's, Sale PF1570, 8 July 2015, results: http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/2015/collection-didier-ludot-pf1570.html Didier Ludot, Paris: https://www.didierludot.fr/ Raphael Samuel, Theatres of Memory: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture (1994): https://www.versobooks.com/books/1098-theatres-of-memory Michael Clarke, 'Exhibition Review: Madeleine Vionnet: 15 Dresses from the Collection of Martin Kamer', Fashion Theory, Vol. 6, 2002, Issue 3: https://doi.org/10.2752/136270402790577631 Rosa Vertov, 'Tina Chow: The inventor of "minimal chic"', Vertov, 7 March 2018: https://shopvertov.com/blogs/vintage-inspiration/tina-chow-the-inventor-of-minimal-chic

We discuss the current Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Paris and the representation of Eastern cultures in fashion, and consider the extravagant vision of Busby Berkeley films from the 1930s. See links below ... Les Nadar, une légende photographique, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris (16 October 2018 - 3 February 2019): http://www.bnf.fr/m/fr/m_actualites/m_anx_expos/f.nadar_legende_photographique.html L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent, Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (2 October 2018 - 27 January 2019): https://museeyslparis.com/expositions/asie-revee-yves-saint-laurent Mélody Thomas, ‘Expo: Ce que l’Asie Rêvée d’Yves Saint Laurent nous dit de la mode actuelle’, Marie Claire (14 October 2018): https://www.marieclaire.fr/exposition-l-asie-revee-d-yves-saint-laurent,1284384.asp Susie Lau, ‘Saint Laurent’s Dreams of the Orient: “When you know a culture, you can’t make mistakes’, The Guardian (2 October 2018): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/02/saint-laurents-dreams-of-the-orient-when-you-know-a-culture-you-cant-make-mistakes Connaissance des Arts, [Avant-Première] ‘L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent’ (24 September 2018): https://youtu.be/4MjGN30QAOs Télé Matin, ‘Mode – Yves Saint Laurent, voyageur imaginaire’ (27 November 2018): https://youtu.be/xvq-M1dt7ws Ray Enright, Busby Berkeley (directors), Dames (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025028/ Phyllis Rose, Jazz Cleopatra: Josephine Baker in Her Time, Doubleday (1989): https://archive.org/details/jazzcleopatrajos00rose

We discuss the delights and dilemmas of layers, and question why some designers are better remembered than others. See information and links below. Hardy Amies, Just So Far (Collins 1954) Hardy Amies, ABC of Men’s Fashion (V&A 2008, first published in 1964): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/abc-of-men-s-fashion-94479.html Hardy Amies, Still Here: An Autobiography (Weidenfeld and Nicolson 1984) Hardy Amies, The Englishman’s Suit (Quartet Books 2013, first published in 1994): https://www.quartetbooks.co.uk/shop/the-englishmans-suit/ Ossie Clark and Lady Henrietta Rous (ed), The Ossie Clark Diaries (Bloomsbury 1998) Norman Hartnell, Silver and Gold (Pitman 1956) Norman Hartnell, Royal Courts of Fashion (Littlehampton 1971) Victor Stiebel, South African Childhood (HarperCollins 1968) Edwina Ehrman & Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (V&A 2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html Neville Jacobs in Balenciaga: https://www.instagram.com/p/BrVcIy7FXST/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

We discuss the power of costume in Powell & Pressburger’s 1947 film Black Narcissus and the amazing silent film actress Asta Nielsen. Michael Powell, Emeric Pressburger (directors), Black Narcissus (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0039192/ Reviews of Black Narcissus: http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/47_BN/index.html Asta Nielsen, Die schweigende Muse (Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, 1979, first published 1945/46) Asta Nielsen's page on Women Film Pioneers Project: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/asta-nielsen-2/ Urban Gad (director), Afgrunden (1910), dance scene: https://youtu.be/criEcLXgUQ0 Urban Gad (director), Die Suffragette (1913): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0132536 Asta Nielsen Flickr Album, Danish Film Institute / The Film Museum: https://www.flickr.com/photos/36461985@N08/albums/72157630867865856

We discuss the wonderful Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery, and wonder about the ethics of using people’s fashion choices for targeting political propaganda. See links below. Atelier E.B: Passer-by at Serpentine Gallery (2018-19): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/exhibitions-events/atelier-eb-passer Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition guide (2018): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/files/downloads/1636.serp_atelier_e.b_guide_aw_no_crops.pdf Eric Newton, 'First surrealist art exhibition in England - archive, 1936', The Guardian (12/06/2018, originally 12/06/1938): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2018/jun/12/first-surrealist-art-exhibition-in-england-archive-1936 RA Collections Team, 'How to read it: Meredith Frampton’s Still Life' (17/02/2017): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/article/how-to-read-it-meredith-frampton Marguerite V. Hodge, 'Enigmatic Bodies: Dolls and the Making of Japanese Modernity', Nineteenth-century art worldwide, vol. 12, issue 1 (spring 2013): http://www.19thc-artworldwide.org/spring13/hodge-enigmatic-bodies (mentions Yasumoto Kamehachi) Gene Moore’s work for Tiffany & Company: https://edan.si.edu/slideshow/slideshowViewer.htm?eadrefid=NMAH.AC.1280_ref113 Lynn Hershman Leeson, Project for Bonvit Teller (1976): http://www.lynnhershman.com/project/site-specific-installations/ Rudolf Belling, Sculptures and Architectures, exhibition at Hamburger Bahnhof, Berlin (2017): https://www.smb.museum/en/exhibitions/detail/rudolf-belling-skulpturen-und-architekturen.html Mannequin Museum, Wolfgang Knapp, KulturGut: http://www.mannequin-museum.com/ Tag Gronberg, Designs on modernity: Exhibiting the city in 1920s Paris (2003): http://www.manchesteruniversitypress.co.uk/9780719066740/ Rebecca Arnold, 'Fashion in Ruins: Photography, Luxury and Dereliction in 1940s London', Fashion Theory, vol. 21, issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1254426 Bethan Bide, 'More than window dressing: visual merchandising and austerity in London’s West End, 1945–50', Fashion Theory, vol. 60, issue 7 (2018): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00076791.2017.1400531 Vikram Alexei Kansara, 'Cambridge Analytica Weaponised Fashion Brands to Elect Trump, Says Christopher Wylie', Business of Fashion (29/11/2018): https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/cambridge-analytica-weaponised-fashion-brands-to-elect-trump-says-christopher-wylie Vanessa Freedman and Jonah Engel Bromwich, 'Cambridge Analytica Used Fashion Tastes to Identify Right-Wing Voters', New York Times (29/11/2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/29/style/cambridge-analytica-fashion-data.html

We talk about Jessie Redmon Fauset's 1928 novel Plum Bun and the affinities between the sense of taste and fashion and beauty. See links below. Jessie Redmon Fauset, Plum Bun (1928): http://www.beacon.org/Plum-Bun-P136.aspx Jacquelyn Y. Mclendon, The Politics of Color in the Fiction of Jessie Fauset and Nella Larsen (1995): https://www.upress.virginia.edu/title/2892 Smithsonian, The Scurlocks and Black Washington (2009): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/videos/category/history/the-scurlocks-and-black-washington/ Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/ Sofia Coppola, Marie Antoinette (2006): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0422720 Rebecca Arnold, '‘The New Rococo: Sofia Coppola And Fashions In Contemporary Femininity’, in Katie Scott and Melissa Hyde, Rococo echo: art, history and historiography from Cochin to Coppola (2014): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/files/2015/09/Rebecca-Arnold-New-Rococo-from-Rococo-Echoes.pdf Raymond Meier photographs for Harper's Bazaar: http://raymondmeier.com/harpers-bazaar/ Lernert & Sander, Natural Beauty (2011): https://www.nowness.com/story/lernert-sander-natural-beauty

We discuss artist Ellen Nolan’s fascinating archive of her great aunt Nita Harvey’s stage and film career. See links below. Nita Harvey Archive page on Ellen Nolan's website: http://www.ellennolan.com/Art/nita/nita.html Ellen Nolan's blog which contains many Nita Harvey images: http://www.ellennolan.com/wp/ 'A Beautiful Dream That Went for a Walk', Voice (2 June 1934): https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/218834069 Nita Harvey on IMDb: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0367663/ You Must Remember This podcast: http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/ Richard Dyer, Stars (1998): http://www.worldcat.org/title/stars/oclc/39370252 Fancy Dress on Screen Archive South East: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/leisure/fancy-dress/

We discuss the ways fashion and autobiography intersect - prompted by a visit to see clothes in the Museum of London archive. See links below. Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye (eds), London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html (article on couture clients features Lady Fox and Lady Delamere) Photos of Myra Alice (née Newton), Lady Fox at NPG: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp91931/myra-alice-nee-newton-lady-fox Lady Fox's skating outfit at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/ice-skating-fashion-craze James Fox, White Mischief (1998, first published 1982): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/103/1034644/white-mischief/9780099766711.html Michael Radford, White Mischief (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0094317/ Lisa Cohen, “Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the Open Secret, and the Language of Fashion, Fashion Theory, Vol. 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270499779155032 Lisa Cohen, “VELVET IS VERY IMPORTANT”: Madge Garland and the Work of Fashion, GLQ - A Journal of Lesbian and Gay Studies, Vol. 11, Issue 3 (2005): https://read.dukeupress.edu/glq/article-abstract/11/3/371/9851/VELVET-IS-VERY-IMPORTANT-Madge-Garland-and-the?redirectedFrom=fulltext Iris Marion Young, Throwing Like a Girl And Other Essays in Feminist Philosophy and Social Theory (1999): http://www.iupress.indiana.edu/product_info.php?products_id=806576