We wonder just what cruise and resort wear are ... Some links below. Fashion, Self-Reflexivity and the Question of Inspiration, Conference, History of Dress, Research Forum, The Courtauld Institute of Art (11 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-self-reflexivity-and-the-question-of-inspiration Addressing Images with Nadya Wang, The Courtauld Institute (17 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/addressing-images-3 Fashion Illustration Masterclass with Martin Welch, The Courtauld Institute (17 June 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-masterclass-with-martin-welch Bobby A. Suarez (director), Cleopatra Wong (1978): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077343/ Resort 2020 Shows on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020 April Calahan, ‘Tina Leser: Global Vision’, in Nancy Deihl (ed), The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-century Women Designers, Bloomsbury (2019) Rebecca Arnold, 'Behind the Scenes with Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Toni Frissell: Alternative Views of Fashion Photography in Mid-Century America', in Fashion Studies, Volume 1, Issue 1 (2018): https://www.fashionstudies.ca/behind-the-scenes Alison Toplis, The Smock Frock: The Journey from Fieldwork to the Pages of Vogue, Textile History, Volume 49, Issue 1 (2018): https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1436245 Smock Shock: Deception and Disguise, Smock Frock Histories: http://www.smockfrock.co.uk/

We discuss the costumes in Pose, it’s influences and the history of Drag Balls. See links below. Jennie Livingston (director), Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/ Jennie Livingston: https://www.jennielivingston.com/ Steven Canals, Brad Falchuk, Ryan Murphy (creators), Pose (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7562112/ Jamel Shabazz: http://www.jamelshabazz.com/ Armet Francis photos at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/name/francis-armet/AUTH319927/ Berry Gordy (director), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/ Monique-Antoine Orosemane (Mounia), ‘Black History Month with Fashion Bomb Daily: Mounia’ (2011): http://fashionbombdaily.com/black-history-month-with-fashion-bomb-daily-mounia/ Debbie Allen in Fame, TV Series, Season 1 (1982): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtgmnhRQir4 RuPaul’s Drag Race (2009-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1353056/ Alyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile: A History of Racial Passing in American Life (Harvard University Press 2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101 bell hooks, ‘Is Paris Burning?’, in Black Looks: Race and Representation (South End Press 1992), pp. 145-156: https://aboutabicycle.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/bell-hooks-black-looks-race-and-representation.pdf Judith Butler, ‘Gender is Burning: Questions of Appropriation and Subversion’, in Anne McClintock, Aamir Mufti, and Ella Shohat (eds.), Dangerous liaisons: gender, nation, and postcolonial perspectives (University of Minnesota Press 1997), pp. 381–395: http://pica.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/gender-is-burning.pdf Farid Chenoune, ‘Their ball: Notes on the Photos of Magic-City, Drag Ball of the Inter-War Period’, Modes Pratiques (January 2018): https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html# Knole: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/knole William Larkin paintings at Kenwood House: https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/kenwood/history-stories-kenwood/history/collections/ William Larkin, Portrait of a Young Lady, possibly Jane, Lady Thornhaugh, 1617, Yale Center for British Art: https://collections.britishart.yale.edu/vufind/Record/4379629

We discuss the ritual of getting dressed with the help of your valet or maid in the early 20th century. See links below. Myself When Young by Iris Capell, printed by D.G. Seldon Printing Limited, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada (not dated) John Singer Sargent, The Countess of Essex, Private Collection (1906): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adele_Capell,_Countess_of_Essex#/media/File:The_Countess_of_Essex,_1906.jpg Henry Poole, Savile Row tailors: https://henrypoole.com/hp/ Le Diable à Paris (1845): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5578064j Louis Gould, Mommy dressing : a love story, after a fashion (1998): https://archive.org/details/mommydressinglov00goul Lucinda Hawksley, The great Victorian beard craze, BBC (17 November 2014): https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-30037914 Kate Strasdin, Inside the Royal Wardrobe: A Dress History of Queen Alexandra (2017): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/inside-the-royal-wardrobe-9781474269933/

We discuss Charles Poulsen’s memoirs of life in early 20th century London and his work in the fur trade. See links below. Charles Poulsen, Scenes from a Stepney youth (1988): https://archive.org/details/scenesfromstepne00poul Charles Hobday, Charles Poulsen (obituary), The Guardian (14 December 2001): https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/dec/14/guardianobituaries.humanities British Pathé, Fur Coat (1953) – shows nailing: https://www.britishpathe.com/video/fur-coat/query/furrier Lyon’s Corner House Menu (1914) – no egg mayonnaise: https://www.kzwp.com/lyons1/tariff1914.htm Photograph of Nippy, Museum of London (1925-1933): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/468522.html

We discuss Moses Quiquine's wonderful art that crosses time and space, and his exhibition ‘Voodoo Child: Identity, Spirituality & Fashion’ at The Africa Centre in London. See links below. Moses Quiquine: ‘Voodoo Child’, The Africa Centre, London (22/03/2019 –17/04/2019): https://www.africacentre.org.uk/blog/moses-quiquine-voodoo-child-exhibition/ Moses Quiquine: https://www.instagram.com/mosesquiquine/ Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: Commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai (ed), The social life of things: commodities in cultural perspective (CUP 1986): http://ls-tlss.ucl.ac.uk/course-materials/ANTH7021_68798.pdf

We talk about the work of some of the artists working with textiles who are part of TJ Boulting's current exhibition Subversive Stitch. See links below. UCL, The Survey of London, Boulting & Sons (19 May 2017): https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/survey-of-london/2017/05/19/boulting-sons/ Subversive Stitch, TJ Boulting (14 February – 23 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/exhibitionspage/509/subversive-stitch Subversive Stitch conversation – Charlotte Edey, Lilah Fowler and Celia Pym (20 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/newsandevents Roszika Parker, The Subversive Stitch (2010, first published 1984): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-subversive-stitch-9781848852839/ Goldsmiths, University of London, The Subversive Stitch Revisited: The Politics of Cloth: https://www.gold.ac.uk/subversivestitchrevisited/ Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir / Shoplifter: http://www.shoplifter.us/ Emma de Clercq, We meet Icelandic artist Shoplifter at her hair-filled Brooklyn studio, Infrigne (20 October 2016): https://www.infringe.com/shoplifter/ Nick Cave: http://nickcaveart.com/Main/Intro.html Nick Cave, Soundsuits – Pogo Group, Denver Art Museum (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3UtqxQS1hk James Merry: https://www.jtmerry.com/ Olga Frantskevich, biography at The Gallery of Everything, London: https://www.gallevery.com/artists/olga-frantskevich Judith Scott, Creative Growth Art Centre: http://www.creativegrowth.org/artists/judith-scott/ Judith Scott – Bound and Unbound, Brooklyn Museum, New York (24 October 2014 – 29 March 2015): https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/judith_scott/ Celia Pym: http://celiapym.com/

We discuss McDermott & McGough’s inspiring Oscar Wilde Temple at Studio Voltaire in Clapham, and its link to Aesthetic Dress. McDermott & McGough, The Oscar Wilde Temple, Studio Voltaire, London (3 October 2018 – 28 April 2019): https://www.studiovoltaire.org/exhibitions/ The Oscar Wilde Temple: https://www.oscarwildetemple.org/ McDermott & McGough: http://www.mcdermottandmcgough.com/ V&A, An Introduction to the Aesthetic Movement (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introduction-to-the-aesthetic-movement Stella Mary Newton, Health, Art & Reason – Dress Reformers of the 19th Century (John Murray 1974) Liberty silk dress made by Denyer & Co, Museum of London (1881-82): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/77441.html Opera Cape made of Liberty fabric, Museum of London (1893-98): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/89403.html

We discuss our love of Molly Goddard and other female designers making clothes that women want to wear now. Molly Goddard: https://mollygoddard.com/ Dress Portrait, Molly Goddard and Sarah Edwards, Chelsea Space (23 January - 1 March 2019): http://www.chelseaspace.org/archive/dress-portrait-info.html Ana Kinsella, How a Dress Can Be More Than a Commodity, Frieze (20 February 2019): https://frieze.com/article/how-dress-can-be-more-commodity Killing Eve, Series 1:2, Costume designer Phoebe de Gaye (15 September 2018): https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p06kc8mb/killing-eve-series-1-2-ill-deal-with-him-later Lily-Evelina England, Fashioning the dangerous woman in 'Killing Eve' (23 November 2018): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/2018/11/23/fashioning-the-dangerous-woman-in-killing-eve/ Smock Frock Histories: http://www.smockfrock.co.uk/ and https://www.instagram.com/smockfrock98/ Batsheva: https://www.batsheva.com The Vampire's Wife: https://thevampireswife.com/ Horror Vacui: https://horror-vacui.com/ Chloe Malle, Pioneer Women Are Roaming the City, The New York Times (12 September 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/12/style/prairie-woman-style-batsheva-doen.html Carl Williams, Revival: Laura Ashley, Apollo (27 September 2013): https://www.apollo-magazine.com/revival-laura-ashley/ Reina Lewis, Modest Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith (2013): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/modest-fashion-9781780763828/ Dressed: The History of Fashion podcast, Cult Style: an interview with Sarah Byrd (26/02/2019): https://www.dressedpodcast.com/podcasts/cult-style-an-interview-with-sarah-byrd.htm

We discuss Valerie Steele's recent talk at the London College of Fashion about the current exhibition at and history of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum in New York. See also links below. Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (8 February 2019 – 20 April 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/exhibitionism.php Valerie Steele and Colleen Hill (eds): Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (2019): http://www.skira.net/en/books/exhibitionism Exhibiting Fashion Symposium, FIT (8 March 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/symposium/exhibiting-fashion/index.php 50 Years of The Museum at FIT: Fashion as Cultural Heritage (14 March 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/index.php#MFIT Walter Vecchio (photos) and Robert Riley (text), The Fashion Makers: A Photographic Record (Crown Publisher 1968) Annalee Gold, ‘Talks with a Costume Conservator’, American Craft (October/November 1981): http://www.bettykirke.com/articles/Craftmag/acm.html Judith Clark and Amy de la Haye with Jeffrey Horsley, Exhibiting Fashion: Before and After 1971(Yale University Press 2014): https://yalebooks.yale.edu/book/9780300125795/exhibiting-fashion Julia Petrov, Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the display of dress (Bloomsbury 2019): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-history-museums-9781350048997/ Lou Taylor, Establishing Dress History (Manchester University Press 2005) Centre for Fashion Curation at LCF: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/research-centres/centre-for-fashion-curation#

We discuss the beautiful exhibition at Alexander McQueen’s Old Bond Street store that shows the research and design process for the current collection. See links below. Unlocking Stories (2019): https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/unlocking-stories/ Hand & Lock: https://handembroidery.com/ Maison Lesage: http://www.lesage-paris.com/ Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html