Bande à part

We discuss the intimate relationship between fashion and interiors, as expressed in couture salon and stores, and how these relate to “backstage” areas where the garments are made. Jess Berry, House of Fashion: Haute Couture and the Modern Interior (Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2018): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/house-of-fashion-9781474283403/ John Pawson’s Jigsaw Store, London (1995-1996): http://www.johnpawson.com/works/jigsaw-store Nigel Coates’ Jigsaw Stores, London (1990): https://nigelcoates.com/projects/project/jigsaw British Movietone, Victor Stiebel’s Salon (1958): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHdtgslRAXo Beatrice Behlen, ‘A Fashionable History of the King's Road’, in Anjali Bulley (ed), Cadogan & Chelsea: The Making of a Modern Estate (Unicorn 2017): https://www.press.uchicago.edu/ucp/books/book/distributed/C/bo28498331.html Helmut Lang shop, New York (1997): http://www.gluckmantang.com/projects/helmut-lang/#2 Helmut Lang Perfumerie, New York (2001): http://www.gluckmantang.com/projects/helmut-lang-parfumerie/#1 Images of Maison Myrbor on Gallica: https://tinyurl.com/y3fa7wca Olivia Chuba, ‘Making Fashion: Humphrey Jennings, Norman Hartnell, And Fashion As Documentary’, Documenting Fashion (10 April 2018): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/tag/documentary/ Erving Goffman, The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life (1956): https://monoskop.org/images/1/19/Goffman_Erving_The_Presentation_of_Self_in_Everyday_Life.pdf Mark Shaw Photographic Archive: https://markshawphoto.com Taryn Simon, ‘Paperwork and the Will of Capital’, Gagosian Gallery (2 January – 2 February 2019): https://gagosian.com/exhibitions/2019/taryn-simon-paperwork-and-the-will-of-capital/ Samantha Erin Safer, ‘Designing Lucile Ltd: Couture and the Modern Interior 1900-1920s’, The Journal of the Decorative Arts Society 1850 - the Present, No. 33, Decorative Art and the World of Fashion (2009), pp. 38-53

190811-P68 Catching Up We catch up on each other’s news - including seaside fashion, Crocs, Manolo Blahnik at the Wallace Collection and The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. Ellie Pithers, ‘Can Christopher Kane Make Crocs Covetable?’, Vogue Online (20 September 2016): https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christopher-kane-crocs-trend Chester Himes, A Rage in Harlem (1957): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/180/180468/a-rage-in-harlem/9780141196442.html An Enquiring Mind: Manolo Blahník at the Wallace Collection, Wallace Collection (10 June – 1 September 2019): https://www.wallacecollection.org/whats-on/coming-soon-an-enquiring-mind-manolo-blahnik-at-the-wallace-collection/ Giorgio Riello, A Foot in the Past: Consumers, Producers and Footwear in the Long Eighteenth Century (Oxford University Press 2006) Empress Marie-Antoinette’s travel essentials: https://www.museesdegrasse.com/en/evenement/box Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français (1778-1785), ‘Couturiere élégante allant livrer son ourvrage’: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1056746t/f177.item Jordan Peele (director), Kym Barrett (costume design), Us (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6857112 Frances Crossley (@francesrcrossley), ‘”Hell Is Other People” – Or Is It US? (3 May 2019): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/2019/05/03/fran/ Thayaht (Ernesto Michahelles) and the TuTa: http://www.galleriarusso.com/artists/171-thayaht-ernesto-michahelles.html Fritz Lang (director), Aenne Willkomm (costume design), Metropolis (1927): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0017136/ Various directors, Donna Zakowska (costume design), The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel (2017) Mary Harron (director), Simonetta Mariono (costume design), Alias Grace (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1034007/ Men’s greatcoat (1803): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/89364.html

Inspired by a recent event at Autograph ABP in London we talk about colourism and film. See links below. Celeste Bell and Zoë Howe, Dayglo!: The Creative Life of Poly Styrene (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/dayglo/celeste-bell/zoe-howe/9781785586163 Jordan Mooney and Cathi Unsworth, Defying Gravity: Jordan’s Story (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/defying-gravity/cathi-jordan/unsworth/9781785588365 Vivien Goldman, Revenge of the She-Punks: A Feminist Music History from Poly Styrene to Pussy Riot (2019): https://guardianbookshop.com/revenge-of-the-she-punks-9781477316542 Colourism and Photography, Past Event at Autograph (2 July 2019): https://autograph.org.uk/events/colourism-and-photography Nadia Latif, It’s lit! How film finally learned to light black skin, The Guardian online (21 September 2017): https://www.theguardian.com/film/2017/sep/21/its-lit-how-film-finally-learned-how-to-light-black-skin Lorna Roth, Looking at Shirley, the Ultimate Norm: Colour Balance, Image Technologies, and Cognitive Equity, Canadian Journal of Communication, Volume 34, Number 1 (2009): https://www.cjc-online.ca/index.php/journal/article/view/2196 Joan Dash, Daughters of the Dust (1991): https://player.bfi.org.uk/rentals/film/watch-daughters-of-the-dust-1991-online Angélica Dass, Humanae Project: https://www.angelicadass.com/humanae-project Broomberg & Chanarin, To photograph the details of a dark horse in low light (2012): http://www.broombergchanarin.com/#/to-photograph-a-dark-horse-in-low-light-1-1/ David Smith, 'Racism' of early colour photography explored in art exhibition, The Guardian online (25 January 2013): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2013/jan/25/racism-colour-photography-exhibition

We talk about the concept of everyday dress following the Everyday Fashion conference in Huddersfield and Leeds. (Apologies for the helicopter noise!) See links below. Everyday Fashion: Extraordinary Stories of Ordinary Clothes (27-18 June 2019): https://research.hud.ac.uk/art-design/events/everyday-fashion-conference/ Alfred Gillet Trust (Heritage Collection of C & C Clark Ltd.): https://alfredgilletttrust.org/ M&S Company Archive: https://marksintime.marksandspencer.com/home Alison Toplis, The Clothing Trade in Provincial England, 1800–1850 (Routledge 2015): https://www.routledge.com/The-Clothing-Trade-in-Provincial-England-18001850-1st-Edition/Toplis/p/book/9781138664449 Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (Bloomsbury 2008): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-american-look-9781860647635/ Cheryl Buckley and Hazel Clark, Fashion and Everyday Life: London and New York (Bloomsbury 2017): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-and-everyday-life-9781474273121/ Sophie Woodward’s publications: https://www.research.manchester.ac.uk/portal/sophie.woodward.html Daniel Miller’s publications: https://www.ucl.ac.uk/anthropology/people/academic-and-teaching-staff/daniel-miller Ben Highmore, Everyday Life and cultural theory: an introduction (Routledge 2002): http://sro.sussex.ac.uk/id/eprint/21290/ Ben Highmore, Ordinary Lives: studies in the everyday (Routledge 2011): http://sro.sussex.ac.uk/id/eprint/20103/ Michel de Certeau, The Practice of Everyday Life (2011, first published in 1980): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520271456/the-practice-of-everyday-life John Styles’ publications: https://www.researchgate.net/profile/John_Styles King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret (V&A 2019, first published 1931): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/king-of-fashion-the-autobiography-of-paul-poiret.html Elizabeth Hawes, Fashion is Spinach (Random House 1938): https://archive.org/stream/fashionisspinach00hawerich/fashionisspinach00hawerich_djvu.txt

We discuss the brilliant new exhibition Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers at Somerset House. See links below. Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers, Somerset House (12 June – 15 September 2019): https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/get-up-stand-up-now Zak Ové: http://www.zak-ove.co.uk/ Horace Ové (director), Pressure (1976): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075098/ Horace Ové, The Black Safari (1972): https://www.bfi.org.uk/films-tv-people/4ce2b6f601fde Normski: http://www.normskiphotography.com/ Barbara Walker: https://www.barbarawalker.co.uk/ David Hammons: https://www.moma.org/artists/2486 Sanford Biggers: http://sanfordbiggers.com/ Marlon James: https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/authors/240287/marlon-james Hank Willis Thomas: https://www.hankwillisthomas.com/ Campbell Addy: https://campbelladdy.com/ Nick Cave at Jack Shainman Gallery: https://www.jackshainman.com/artists/nick-cave/ Ari Haque: https://ari-potter.com/

We discuss the allure of 1930s gangster style, as seen in American and Japanese films. Links are below. Holly Marler’s collection for Liberty London (June 2019): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/liberty-london-fashion Documenting Fashion Blog: http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ Rich Cohen, The Original Gangster Style, New York Times (10 June 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/10/fashion/the-original-gangster-style-guy.html Mervyn LeRoy (director), Little Caesar (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0021079/ Albert Parker (director), The Black Pirate (1926): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0016654/ Yasujirô Ozu (director), Walk Cherfully (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020980/ The Ozu Collection – The Gangster Films, BFI (1929-1933): https://www.bfi.org.uk/blu-rays-dvds/ozu-collection-gangster-films Frank R. Strayer, Rough House Rosie (1927): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0018345/ Pamela Hutchison, Walk Cheerfully (1930: Yasujiro Ozu’s Toe-Tapping Tough Guys, Silent London (8 May 2018): https://silentlondon.co.uk/2018/05/08/walk-cheerfully-1930-yasijuro-ozus-toe-tapping-tough-guys/ George Cukor (director), Dinner at Eight (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0018345/

We discuss the fascinating archive of technical menswear at Westminster University. See links below. Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.mensweararchive.com/ Westminster Menswear Archive database: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/westminster-menswear-archive Westminster Menswear Archive IG: https://www.instagram.com/menswear_archive/?hl=en Video about the Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEDoqc2NMgY Westminster Menswear Archive - Item 2016.138 - Padded Shooting Jacket: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/2016-138 Example of Chinese Fighter Pilot High Altitude Partial Pressure Suit: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/china-air-force-mig-23-fighter-pilot-500884658 Massimo Osti Archive: https://www.massimoosti.com/the-archive/mission/ Gunner Park, The Uncompromising World of Carol Christian Poell, Grailed (19 May 2017): https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/carol-christian-poell-master-class W. David Marx, Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style (Basic Books 2015): https://www.basicbooks.com/titles/w-david-marx/ametora/9780465059737/ Bernard Rudofsky, Are Clothes Modern? An essay on contemporary apparel (Paul Theobald 1947): https://www.moma.org/documents/moma_catalogue_3159_300063439.pdf

We discuss which painting we would most like to live in ... See links below. Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849 Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, National Gallery, London (about 1434): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait Hans Memling, The Donne Tryptich, National Gallery, London (about 1478): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-memling-the-donne-triptych Oorijzers – ‘Ear-irons’ – Part 1, Atelier Nostalgia (27 September 2016): https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2016/09/27/oorijzers-ear-irons-part-1/ John Singer Sargent, Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (1897): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/38.104/ Wash Westmoreland (director), Colette (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5437928/ James Jacques Tissot, Frederick Burnaby, National Portrait Gallery, London (1870): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00932/Frederick-Burnaby François-Hubert Drouais, Madame de Pompadour at her Tambour Frame, National Portrait Gallery, London (1763-4): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/francois-hubert-drouais-madame-de-pompadour-at-her-tambour-frame Otto Dix, Bildnis der Journalistin Sylvia von Harden, Centre Pompidou (1926): https://www.centrepompidou.fr/cpv/resource/cjyXKB7/rzEpd6 August Sander, Sekretärin beim Westdeutscher Rundfunk in Köln (1931): https://art.rmngp.fr/fr/library/artworks/august-sander_sekretarin-beim-westdeutscher-rundfunk-in-koln_epreuve-gelatino-argentique_1931

We discuss Charlie Curran’s beautiful film See Know Evil which documents the life of fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti. See links below. Charlie Curran (director), See Know Evil (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8755156/ See Know Evil on Charlie Curran’s website: http://www.charliecurran.com/see-know-evil See Know Evil IG: https://www.instagram.com/see_know_evil/ Charlie Curran IG: https://www.instagram.com/myhilism/ Rebecca Arnold, Fashion Desire and Anxiety (I.B. Tauris 2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Heroin Chic’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 3 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779151405 Jake Hall, ‘Reframing the life and work of pioneering 90s photographer Davide Sorrenti’, Dazed (24 January 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/43027/1/davide-sorrenti-90s-photographer-see-know-evil-film-charles-curran-heroin-chic James Cameron (director), Terminator 2: Judgement Day (1991): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103064/ Louise Krasniewicz and Michael Blitz, The Intersexts of Linda Hamilton’s Arms (1996): http://chnm.gmu.edu/aq/arnold/arnoldwebpages/intersext.htm and https://www.academia.edu/11345036/The_Intersexts_of_Linda_Hamiltons_Arms_updated_with_references

We discuss Max Ophüls’ 1952 film Le Plaisir and wonder at the ageing dandy portrayed in the opening section. See links below. Max Ophüls (director), Le Plaisir (1952): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0045034/ Max Ophüls (director), The Mask from Le Plaisir (1952) – with Italian subtitles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoBi1BeT_PQ&t=22s Robin Wood, ‘Le Plaisir: Life is Movement’ (16 September 2008): https://www.criterion.com/current/posts/548-le-plaisir-life-is-movement V.F. Perkins, ‘Le Plaisir: “The Mask” and “The Model”’, Film Quarterly (1 September 2009): https://filmquarterly.org/2009/09/01/le-plaisir-the-mask-and-the-model/ Guy de Maupassant, Le Masque (1889): http://colleges.ac-rouen.fr/pompidou/eva/IMG/pdf_Maupassant_-_Le_Masque.pdf Guy de Maupassant, The Mask (1889): http://www.online-literature.com/maupassant/4272/ Susan Buck-Morss, The Dialectics of Seeing: Walter Benjamin and the Arcades Project (MIT Press 1989): http://susanbuckmorss.info/media/files/the-dialectics-of-seeing.pdf Peter Wollen, ‘The Concept of Fashion in The Arcades Project’, boundary 2, Volume 30, Number 1, pp. 131-142 (Spring 2003): https://read.dukeupress.edu/boundary-2/article-abstract/30/1/131/6159/The-Concept-of-Fashion-in-The-Arcades-Project Ulrich Lehmann, Tigersprung: Fashion in Modernity (MIT Press 2000): https://mitpress.mit.edu/books/tigersprung The Unexpurgated Beaton Diaries (Weidenfeld & Nicolson 2002)