The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Finger strength is a climber’s best friend, and this discussion dives deep into training techniques that boost it. From simple routines you can stick to, to the effectiveness of different grip types, every tip is gold. Learn how specificity in training impacts performance and the fine line between pushing limits and preventing injuries. Discover the power of personalized training and how to adapt your regimen for optimal results. Consistency is key, so get ready to climb higher and stronger!

German professional climber Alex Megos shares his thrilling experiences from a significant sending spree in Norway. He discusses his impressive ascents, including the challenges of managing high-difficulty climbs like Change 9b+ and exploring future projects. The conversation dives into his transformative America Tour, and how onsighting Estado Critico reshaped his career. With a touch of humor, Alex also reveals his carrot consumption habits and the quirky side effects! His journey reflects a blend of physical prowess and mental resilience in climbing.

Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org 

Step into the weight room with insights on the SAID principle and progressive overload. Discover why climbers need a unique training approach, and learn effective workout planning using Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE). Master the basics of weight training with essential compound lifts, while balancing climbing and strength routines for optimal performance. Delve into the importance of protein intake and recovery, debunking myths about dietary needs. Embrace the journey of strength training tailored specifically for climbers!

Midori Buechli, a talented V11 climber passionate about female representation in climbing, joins filmmaker Long Truong to discuss their groundbreaking all-female bouldering film, Girls Gone Hueco. They share the challenges and surprises of filmmaking, the importance of a supportive girl gang, and the hidden costs involved in production. Humorous stories, like the infamous trash can shower, highlight the adventure. They also provide inspiring advice for aspiring filmmakers and tackle issues like imposter syndrome, celebrating the authenticity of climbing.

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard design.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking(00:11:28) – Limiting factors(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting(00:19:19) – Specializing(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength(00:21:18) – More on specialization(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols(00:53:35) – When to progress weight(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong(01:05:29) – Repeaters(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan(01:35:12) – More about repeaters(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Discover the secrets to training effectively on spray and home walls! The hosts share practical tips for setting up your wall, including the best holds and angles. Learn how to create a repertoire of benchmark climbs while iterating for continuous improvement. They dive into the art of route setting, emphasizing creativity and personalization in your climbing space. Plus, explore useful apps to track your progress and maximize your training potential. It's all about making climbing fun while honing your skills!

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut VideosBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-frugeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave(00:04:05) – Overview(00:05:31) – Amy’s martial arts background(00:10:21) – Confidence(00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing(00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing(00:22:24) – How Amy’s athletic background informs her work with climbers(00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid(00:27:13) – Radiculopathy(00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine(00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine(00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle(00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine(00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference(00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues(01:01:15) – Finding a provider(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy(01:10:23) – Pain is protective(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences(01:29:26) – Another client success story(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog(01:54:42) – Wrap up

Explore the essential tips for mastering training boards like the Tension and Moonboard. Learn how to treat sessions like structured training, manage volume, and keep workouts short for power gains. Discover the importance of clear session plans and dive into the challenges of translating board strength to outdoor climbs. The hosts share insights on avoiding common pitfalls and the nuances of grading systems. Whether you’re a beginner or seasoned climber, this discussion will elevate your training game!

Jesse Firestone, an experienced climber, returns to share invaluable training techniques and insights into injury recovery. He highlights essential methods for breaking through plateaus and reflects on key climbing fundamentals. Listeners can expect personal anecdotes and expert advice designed to help climbers at all levels improve their skills. The conversation celebrates the success of the first season while diving deeper into effective training strategies, including training boards and weight lifting.