Dwight Garner, a New York Times book critic and author of The Upstairs Deli, shares his unique journey of finding joy in reading and food. He humorously recounts his pride in learning to love chicken feet. The conversation dives into the nostalgia tied to childhood foods and collectibles, exploring how these experiences shape culinary preferences. Garner emphasizes the importance of genuine food experiences versus mass-produced variants, bringing a thoughtful yet entertaining perspective on taste and everyday pleasures.
Dwight Garner emphasizes the impact of Calvin Trillin in making American vernacular cuisine accessible, challenging elitist culinary standards.
The podcast highlights the importance of culinary curiosity and shared food experiences in enriching one’s appreciation of diverse flavors.
Deep dives
Ansel Keys and the Mediterranean Diet
Ansel Keys was pivotal in shaping dietary habits, particularly through his invention of K-rations for World War II soldiers. Despite an early academic focus on political science and oceanography, Keys developed a profound interest in cardiovascular health, leading him to be a vocal opponent of cholesterol. Together with his wife Margaret, he promoted the Mediterranean diet through best-selling books, allowing them to enjoy a prolonged stay in Italy. Their long lives suggest the diet's efficacy, contrasting with processed foods like Twinkies that persist long after their creators.
The Influence of Calvin Trillin
Dwight Garner reflects on the significant impact of Calvin Trillin in democratizing food writing by celebrating American vernacular cuisine over high-end gourmet styles. In a time when food culture was dominated by elite French dining, Trillin focused on barbecue and local favorites, which made dishes more accessible and relatable. Garner was inspired by Trillin's approach, as it encouraged readers to appreciate fresh, local options rather than pursuing food status symbols. This shift in perspective highlights the connection between food and social class, advocating for the enjoyment of unpretentious culinary experiences.
Exploring Taste and Culinary Curiosity
The podcast emphasizes the importance of culinary curiosity and how a person's upbringing influences their food preferences. It draws parallels between food appreciation and reading, suggesting that both can be enriched by attentive experiences and quality introductions. The notion that comfort food can limit culinary exploration is acknowledged, urging individuals to seek better options as their tastes evolve. Additionally, the discussion points out that shared experiences with food can lead to a greater appreciation of diverse flavors and traditions, nurturing a lifelong exploration of what’s available.
This New York Times book critic has many off-the-job accomplishments: “Learning how to eat chicken feet and love them is one thing I’m really proud of.” The author of The Upstairs Deli expands our capacity for joy—in reading, in eating, in life. Produced with Rizzoli bookstore. Music: Stephanie Jenkins.
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