Babsi Zangerl, a leading figure in traditional climbing, joins Jacopo Larcher, known for tackling challenging routes, to discuss the passion behind their sport. They delve into the risks and thrills of traditional climbing, sharing tales from their ascent of the notorious Eternal Flame route in Pakistan. The conversation highlights overcoming fear, the importance of gear reliability, and how their perspectives have shifted from competition to tackling the wild. Their insights shed light on the future of climbing, balancing risk with growth.
Babsi and Jacopo emphasize the importance of overcoming fear in climbing, illustrating how repeated exposure builds trust in gear and skills.
Their transition from competition-focused climbing to traditional ascents reflects a desire for deeper connections with climbing experiences and personal limits.
Deep dives
Building Confidence in Free Climbing
Climbing begins with a gradual buildup of confidence, particularly in free climbing, which can be intimidating for many climbers. The climber recalls starting out at a relatively low level and feeling immense fear while encountering difficult routes; experiences like second-guessing gear placements were common. Progression is often achieved not through singular breakthroughs, but through persistent practice and repeated exposure to challenging climbs, which help diminish fears over time. Establishing a routine in climbing can lead to a greater familiarity with the gear, ultimately enabling climbers to tackle harder routes with increased assurance.
The Evolution of Climbing Styles
Climbing experiences are often shaped by individual journeys, where climbers evolve from competition-focused climbing to more traditional and adventurous styles. Both Babsy and Jacopo illustrate this transition from bouldering and competition climbing to tackling strenuous trad climbs and big wall ascents. Their shifts stem from a desire to connect more deeply with the climbing experience, pushing personal limits and stepping outside of their comfort zones. This evolution reflects a common theme among climbers, where the pursuit of new challenges becomes a driving motivation in their climbing careers.
Learning from Fear and Failure
Fear plays a critical role in the climbing journey, especially when faced with high routes and questionable gear placements. Babsy discusses how overcoming fear required forcing oneself to fall, which ultimately built trust in both gear and personal climbing abilities. Each failed attempt on challenging routes contributed to a gradual increase in confidence, as critical learning moments arose from repeatedly confronting and navigating fear-inducing situations. This process of failing and persevering resonates with many climbers, highlighting that real growth occurs through experience and repetition.
The Unique Challenges of Traditional Climbing
The discussion surrounding traditional climbing focuses on the intricate balance between risk evaluation and performance under pressure. Climbers experience varying levels of comfort based on their backgrounds, with some coming from sport climbing, which can offer a different sense of security. The lack of guarantees in gear placements leads to ongoing discussions about risk management, with climbers often balancing physical fitness against preparedness for challenging ascents. This dynamic highlights the constant evolution within the climbing community, where climbers continuously seek hard climbs while assessing their safety and the limits of their abilities.
While most of the elite climbing world has turned its attention to raw difficulty in sport and bouldering, Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have been carrying the torch for hard, sometimes dangerous, traditional climbing. We talk about Eternal Flame, managing risk and getting sandbagged in Yosemite.