99% Invisible It’s a Small Aisle After All
Apr 26, 2022
Shirley Wong, a talented podcast producer, joins Stephen Chen, son of renowned chef Joyce Chen, to share insights into the evolution of ethnic food aisles in American supermarkets. They discuss how Joyce's legacy changed perceptions of Asian cuisine, transforming it from niche to mainstream. The conversation dives into the marketing strategies that shaped these aisles and the impact of diversity on culinary representation. Wong and Chen also explore the experience of American products abroad, revealing the cultural implications of grocery placement.
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Joyce Chen's Egg Roll Success
- Joyce Chen's egg rolls were a hit at a school fair, leading to unexpected demand.
- This success inspired her culinary career, from cookbooks to a cooking show.
The Ethnic Aisle Paradox
- Despite her success, Joyce Chen's gourmet sauces were placed in the ethnic aisle.
- This aisle groups foods by racial category, unlike other food categories.
Evolution of Specialty Foods
- Early supermarkets catered to white clientele, neglecting diverse food preferences.
- Italian food, initially disliked, gained popularity, leading to a dedicated "specialty foods" section.