Will Bosi: Sending four V17s, Simple Training for Power and Endurance, 5.15d / 9c+ Goals, the Problem with Downgrading
Nov 27, 2024
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In this engaging discussion, elite climber Will Bosi shares insights from his incredible career, including his recent V17 send, "Spots of Time." He reveals the surprisingly simple training methods that fuel his power and endurance. Listeners will learn about his unique diet, including the favorite gas station snacks that keep him energized. Bosi also dives into the challenges of climbing solo versus with others, and shares his aspirations for tackling a mega route planned by Adam Ondra. A perfect blend of technique, nutrition, and the climbing mindset!
Will Bosi highlights the importance of personal growth and mental resilience in climbing, balancing achievement with the strain it brings.
He emphasizes a surprisingly simple training routine, advocating for accessibility and personalization over complex techniques to enhance climbing performance.
Bosi discusses the unique mental fatigue that follows intense climbs, underlining the need for both physical and mental preparedness in the sport.
His candid approach to nutrition revolves around convenience and personal preferences, promoting flexibility while fueling performance during demanding training.
Deep dives
Will Bozey's Solo Journey in Climbing
Will Bozey describes his recent accomplishments in climbing, highlighting that his latest successes are part of a solo journey, differentiating it from previous climbs with collaborators. He shares a sense of pride and excitement after completing a challenging climb, referring to it as riding a high from his achievement, even while contending with a cold. This duality reflects the emotional landscape climbers often navigate: the thrill of accomplishment juxtaposed with the physical fatigue that follows. The discussion signifies the internal victory and personal growth that come from pushing one's limits in such demanding sport.
Simplicity in Training Methods
Bozey elaborates on his surprisingly simple training methods that yield exceptional results in tackling difficult climbs. He describes that despite his encounters with high-grade problems, his approach remains accessible, focusing on routine practices and well-rounded physical conditioning. This simplicity highlights the importance of personalizing training to what feels effective, rather than complicating it with fancy techniques. By breaking down his progress into manageable components, he conveys that even the hardest routes are attainable through consistent effort and clarity in purpose.
Fresh Ascent of V17 'Spots of Time'
Will Bozey discusses his recent ascent of the V17 problem 'Spots of Time,' marking it as an important milestone in his climbing career. In detailing his process, he mentions how the climb was achieved after a series of eight dedicated sessions, showcasing both mental and physical determination. By ranking his experiences on similar difficulty climbs, he provides context that emphasizes the challenges inherent in each problem. His success enriches the conversation on setting and achieving high goals in bouldering, especially for aspiring climbers.
Mental Fatigue versus Physical Exhaustion
In his reflections on the post-climb fatigue he experiences, Bozey emphasizes that the mental strain often surpasses the physical exhaustion from climbing. He reveals that this form of fatigue manifests as a creative drain, particularly after completing a project that has demanded intense focus and emotional investment. This realization resonates with climbers who may find themselves in similar situations, as mental resilience plays a crucial role in sustained performance. Bozey's insights underscore the importance of not only physical conditioning but also mental preparedness in the sport.
The Role of Nutrition in Climbing Performance
Bozey provides an authentic look at his nutrition game, describing his somewhat unconventional diet that includes a mix of convenience foods like pancakes and sweet potato. He articulates a relatable struggle with maintaining a balanced diet amidst the demands of a climbing lifestyle and reveals how he optimizes his energy through simple food choices. This candid discussion normalizes the varied eating habits of climbers while illustrating the need for proper fuel during intense training sessions. Bozey’s tips, centered on personal preferences rather than rigidity, promote a healthy yet flexible approach to nutrition for climbing.
The Unique Experience of Outdoor Climbing
Will Bozey expresses a profound appreciation for the beauty and tranquility found in outdoor climbing, contrasting it with the competitive atmosphere of indoor competitions. He describes the solitude and peace that come with tackling boulders in remote locations, contributing to a more fulfilling climbing experience. This environment allows him to focus solely on the climbing process rather than external pressures, enhancing his connection with nature and the sport. Through this narrative, he conveys the essence of outdoor climbing as a deeply personal and enriching journey.
Struggles with Skin Health Among Climbers
Bozey discusses the unique challenges he faces with skin health due to his 'wet and soft' skin type, which complicates his climbing performance. He describes employing various methods to care for his skin, revealing a level of vulnerability in the process that many climbers can identify with. This topic sheds light on the often-overlooked aspect of climbing: maintaining skin health as a vital component of performance and longevity in the sport. His practical approach to skin care emphasizes the importance of self-awareness and proactive measures in overcoming common climbing obstacles.
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In this episode, elite climber Will Bosi explores:
His latest V17 send, Spots of Time
His biggest struggle as a climber
Climbing with a crowd vs by himself
His surprisingly simple training routine
Replica training, and when it works / doesn't work
How he builds endurance
What gas station food he ate before sending his latest V17
Projecting tactics
Speed vs Accuracy when it comes to limit climbs
Which mega Adam Ondra route he plans to project soon
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CHAPTERS:
Struggle: 0:06:36
Training: 0:45:22
Nutrition: 0:59:06
Tactics: 1:05:23
Mental Game: 1:24:30
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.
Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! The absolute best skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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