KQED's Forum When Smoke Gets in Your Wine
Jan 16, 2026
Nicola Twilley, a contributor to The New Yorker and author focused on smoke taint in wine, joins winemaker Ashley Egelhoff from Honig Vineyard & Winery. They delve into how wildfire smoke affects grape chemistry, leading to undesirable flavors. Ashley shares her hands-on experience grappling with smoke-impacted fruit and innovative testing methods. The discussion also touches on the industry's struggles with climate change, the challenges of measuring smoke compounds, and the debate on whether smoke can be a unique terroir or a flaw in wine.
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Harvest Interrupted By Smoke
- Ashley Egelhoff described unloading Sauvignon Blanc when lightning and smoke arrived on the first day of harvest in 2020.
- They halted unloading, tested fruit, and feared reds would be a losing battle because smoke compounds concentrate in skins.
Prioritize Testing And Whites First
- Test incoming fruit thoroughly before processing and favor whites that are pressed off skins.
- Prioritize whites like Sauvignon Blanc since most smoke compounds reside in skins and reds are harder to salvage.
Smoke Hides In Sugar Bonds
- Nicola Twilley explained grapes bind smoke chemicals to sugars so raw fruit can taste fine.
- Fermentation breaks those bonds and releases the smoky chemicals into wine.
