The Rich Roll Podcast

Kai Lenny: The World's Most Versatile Surfer On Adventure, Risk, & Turning Fear Into Fuel

15 snips
Jul 31, 2023
Kai Lenny, a Maui-born athlete celebrated as the world's most versatile waterman, shares his thrilling journey in surfing, kiteboarding, and more. He delves into the psychology of conquering massive waves, transforming fear into focus. Lenny discusses the thrill of big-wave surfing, the role of mental conditioning, and the importance of innovation in water sports. With personal stories of adventure and self-discovery, he inspires listeners to embrace risk and push their limits while maintaining a deep connection to the ocean.
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ANECDOTE

Riding Jaws at 16

Kai Lenny rode Jaws for the first time at 16, using snowboard boots and almost embarrassed himself when his soles peeled off. He ended up being towed into big waves and successfully rode them.

ANECDOTE

The Best-Worst Feelings

Winning feels euphoric initially but ultimately leads to a drop in motivation. The pain of loss drives analysis and growth after competitions.

INSIGHT

Calmness on Big Waves

Riding big waves brings a heightened sense of calmness and focus, allowing the mind to see opportunities amidst chaos. This perspective shifts the experience from fear to embracing the beauty of the moment.

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