
Kai Lenny: The World's Most Versatile Surfer On Adventure, Risk, & Turning Fear Into Fuel
The Rich Roll Podcast
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The Thrill of Big Wave Surfing
This chapter explores the exhilarating experience of surfing 70 to 80 foot waves, detailing both the psychological challenges and the immense adrenaline rush involved. The speaker discusses the evolution of big wave surfing from survival tactics to artistic maneuvers, contrasting the instinctual nature of small wave surfing with the strategic planning required for monumental waves. Through specific examples like Nazare and Jaws, the chapter highlights the unique dynamics and challenges faced by surfers in these extreme conditions.
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