The Sporkful

How the Jalapeño Lost Its Heat

7 snips
May 19, 2025
Willa Paskin, host of Slate's Decoder Ring, brings insight alongside food critic Brian Reinhart and journalist Gustavo Arellano to unravel the mystery of the declining spice in jalapeños. Reinhart shares his personal experiences and research about how grocery store jalapeños have become milder over time. The trio explores the cultural shift in American cuisine, the impact on the salsa industry, and the challenges faced by growers. They delve into the oscillating popularity of Mexican food in the U.S., critically examining how tastes have evolved.
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ANECDOTE

Jalapeño Heat Mystery

  • Brian Reinhart noticed that jalapeños he bought gradually lost their spiciness.
  • He confirmed with chefs that store jalapeños had become much milder over time.
INSIGHT

Unpredictable Jalapeño Heat

  • Jalapeño heat depends both on genetics and environmental stress, making it unpredictably spicy.
  • Processing plants struggled to consistently predict pepper heat for product formulations.
INSIGHT

Oleoresin Capsaicin Standardizes Heat

  • Oleoresin capsaicin, pure capsaicin extract, enables standardized heat in products.
  • Mild jalapeños are more versatile as heat can be added, but not removed.
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