The Power Company Climbing Podcast

EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching

5 snips
Mar 14, 2024
Guest
Taylor Reed
Taylor Reed, a climber and coach with a wealth of experience, dives into evidence-informed movement coaching. He discusses the importance of integrating research with personal experience for better coaching methods. Taylor emphasizes the value of ecological dynamics in skill development and the need for adaptable coaching styles. He explores innovative drills that enhance climbing technique and reflects on the challenges of remote coaching assessments. Discover how to redefine success in climbing and foster a dynamic coach-athlete relationship.
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INSIGHT

Evidence-Informed Coaching

  • Evidence-informed coaching incorporates research, experience, and client preferences.
  • It's crucial, especially when research is limited, unlike rigid evidence-based methods.
ADVICE

Focus on Methods and Discussions

  • Focus on research papers' methods and discussion sections.
  • These offer researchers' interpretations, motivations, and practical thoughts, more than conclusions.
ANECDOTE

Unconventional Rest

  • Chris Sharma describes climbing a 13b with an unusual resting strategy.
  • Deep lock-offs on gastons, despite not being standard rest, proved crucial.
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