
This Is TASTE 699: Exciting News From the Land of Sqirl with Jessica Koslow
Dec 10, 2025
Jessica Koslow, the dynamic chef behind Sqirl in Los Angeles, shares her journey from launching an inventive jam business to creating a groundbreaking restaurant. She discusses her unique sorrel rice bowl and the significance of farmer relationships in her cooking. Tigist Reda, chef-owner of Chicago's Demera, explores the warmth of Ethiopian cuisine, revealing her favorite dishes and inspirations. Both chefs highlight community building in the restaurant industry, touching on future aspirations and personal culinary stories.
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Contemporary Fine Dining, Day And Night
- Sqirl is “contemporary fine dining” by day as casual chef-driven counter service and by night as casual full-service dining.
- Jessica frames the food as technically precise yet nostalgic and approachable.
Dish Choices Influence Farming
- The sorrel rice bowl married fermented layers and sorrel to make rice craveable beyond usual audiences.
- Its success encouraged local farmers to grow more sorrel for supply.
Atlanta Training Shaped Sqirl Ethos
- Jessica apprenticed with Anne Cotrano in Atlanta, learning preservation, farmers relationships, and market-driven cooking.
- That experience directly shaped Squirrel's preservation ethic and market ties in L.A.

