The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects
Sep 1, 2025
Kerwin Loukusa, a climbing dad from Leavenworth, WA, recently achieved his first V12 and V13 while balancing family life and a job. He discusses his journey to enhance flexibility for climbing, shares training tips, and talks about the importance of building persistent strength. Kerwin delves into weather forecasting for climbing conditions, highlighting how dew point affects performance. He also emphasizes embracing a beginner's mindset, the joy of exploration in climbing, and the balance between passion and parenting.
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Built A Stemming Corner To Train Flexibility
- Kerwin built a stemming corner in a gym kids area and practiced palming and drop-knee positions for 5–20 minute rounds.
- He used it to train real on-wall flexibility and foot strength in a controlled, low-risk environment.
Train Flexibility In The Activity You Use It
- Kerwin ties mobility gains to ecological movement theory: train in the exact context you will use the skill.
- On-wall, situation-specific stretching plus gradual loading created transferable flexibility for granite stemming.
Trad Years Led To Yosemite Success
- Kerwin spent years trad climbing after hand injuries and built skills for Yosemite routes like Free Rider and Father Time.
- He practiced multi-pitch and stemming techniques for many seasons before successfully freeing Free Rider in 2018.
