Kerwin Loukusa lives in Leavenworth, WA, and sent his first V12 and V13 last year while juggling a full-time job, wife, and two young kids. We talked about how he improved his flexibility to send the Freerider in Yosemite, bouldering after having kids, home wall training, the key to building persistent strength, bodyweight manipulation, energy availability, beginner's mind, feeling vs. analysing, weather forecasting hacks, how dew point affects climbing conditions, and much more. A lot of nuggets in this one.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kerwin-loukusa
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:05) – Flexibility journey
(00:08:08) – Identifying limiting factors
(00:10:38) – Stemming flexibility continued
(00:16:39) – Freerider & Father TIme
(00:24:15) – Bouldering after kids
(00:26:56) – Mountain running & cardio
(00:40:00) – Leveling up to V12 and V13
(00:48:07) – Home wall training
(01:09:54) – Off-the-wall training
(01:11:28) – Building persistent strength
(01:16:45) – Pillars 1-3: Proximetry, Rest, & Nutrition
(01:32:23) – Know yourself
(01:35:06) – Bodyweight & energy availability
(01:48:13) – Pillar 4: Mindset
(02:01:35) – Slingblade V13
(02:10:03) – An obsessive brain
(02:14:25) – Obstacles & growth
(02:20:43) – Don’t get injured
(02:23:42) – Slow & steady gains
(02:32:46) – Ease into it
(02:37:32) – Intuition & beta iteration
(02:45:09) – Beginner's mind
(02:50:39) – Feeling vs. analyzing
(02:54:26) – Power spots
(03:00:30) – Weather forecasting
(03:18:03) – Dew point
(03:22:43) – Cold rock
(03:26:36) – Morning climbing
(03:38:36) – Upcoming goals
(03:40:50) – Mentorship & stewardship
(03:46:18) – Public vs. private land
