99% Invisible

I Can't Believe It's Pink Margarine

Oct 19, 2021
Chris Berube, the producer, dives into the colorful, complicated world of margarine, while Elaine Kostarova, a food historian, shares her expertise on its rich history. They discuss the bizarre shades of margarine, from hauntingly bland whites to an unexpected pink. The conversation traces margarine's survival against a backdrop of smear campaigns and dietary debates. Discover how this misunderstood spread evolved from a wartime necessity to a beloved kitchen staple, as well as its ongoing role in modern plant-based diets.
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ANECDOTE

Quebec's Gray Margarine

  • Chris Berube noticed something odd during childhood visits to his grandparents in Quebec.
  • The margarine wasn't yellow like butter; it was an unappetizing pale gray due to a Quebec law.
INSIGHT

Margarine's Origins

  • Margarine was invented by Hippolyte Mége-Mouriés in response to Napoleon III's call for a cheap butter alternative for the French navy.
  • While initially not popular in France, it found a market in America where butter was expensive.
ANECDOTE

Margarine Disinformation

  • The dairy lobby launched a disinformation campaign against margarine, portraying it as disgusting and unhealthy.
  • They spread rumors, published editorial cartoons, and highlighted alleged cases of butter fraud.
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