The Sporkful

Why A Famous Chef Asked A Critic To Leave His Restaurant

8 snips
Jun 16, 2025
This week’s guest is MacKenzie Chung Fegan, a prominent restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, who has previously written for major publications such as Bon Appetit and GQ. MacKenzie shares a surprising encounter with celebrity chef Thomas Keller at The French Laundry. She reveals the intricate dynamics between critics and chefs, discussing how a single review can reshape legacies. Listeners also get a glimpse into her background and the impact of her immigrant family's restaurant history on her culinary critique.
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ANECDOTE

Family's Breakthrough Restaurant Story

  • Mackenzie Chung Fegan's grandparents opened a regional Hunan Chinese restaurant in San Francisco in the 70s.
  • A positive review in The New Yorker called it the best Chinese restaurant in the world, boosting their success.
INSIGHT

Thomas Keller's Culinary Impact

  • Thomas Keller transformed American fine dining with playful, pun style dishes like the tuna tartare cornet.
  • This style made tasting menus popular and changed dining culture nationwide.
ANECDOTE

Critic's Undercover Visit Unfolds

  • Mackenzie visited The French Laundry undercover for a work-related scouting visit with friends.
  • She gave a fake name but was recognized, which led to a private talk with Thomas Keller.
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