Experienced climber Eric Horst joins Tom Randall to discuss training for aging climbers. They cover topics such as strength and power training, endurance training, high-intensity interval training, recovery strategies, and nutrition. They also highlight the importance of adaptation and adjustment as climbers age and discuss the joy and fulfillment of climbing for longevity.
Adapting training approaches and finding a balance between pushing limits and avoiding harm is crucial for aging climbers.
Maintaining strength and power through well-designed workouts and nutrition is essential for older athletes.
Understanding one's genetic profile can provide valuable information for reaching maximum climbing potential and high-level performance.
Deep dives
Importance of Adaptation and Adjustment as an Aging Climber
As climbers age, it becomes crucial to adapt and adjust training approaches to maintain performance and prevent injuries. Eric Hurst, a renowned climber and trainer, emphasizes the need for countermeasures and discusses the changes he has made in his training and climbing journey over the years. He highlights the importance of finding a balance between pushing physical limits and avoiding activities that could lead to potential harm.
Maintaining Strength and Power as an Aging Athlete
Eric Hurst shares his perspective on strength and power training for older athletes. While acknowledging the decline of peak strength and power with age, he emphasizes the significance of maintaining those levels through well-designed workouts. He discusses the need to focus on the quality of strength training and incorporate exercises away from the climbing wall to reduce the risk of injuries. Hurst also highlights the role of nutrition in supporting strength and power development, emphasizing the importance of fueling the body for optimal performance and recovery.
Nutrition and Its Role in Climbing Performance for Aging Athletes
Eric Hurst underscores the importance of nutrition for aging athletes, particularly in supporting climbing performance and facilitating recovery. Drawing on his research and personal experience, he discusses the key nutrients and deficiencies commonly seen in older climbers, such as protein, vitamin D, and magnesium. Hurst recommends maintaining adequate protein intake, higher than previously believed, and emphasizes the need to address deficiencies through targeted supplementation. He also highlights the role of nutrition in overall health and longevity for climbers of all ages.
The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance
Genetics plays a significant role in climbing performance, influencing factors such as response to training programs and predisposition to certain climbing styles. Some individuals may naturally respond better to specific training programs based on their genetic makeup, while others may excel in different climbing disciplines due to their genetic predispositions. Understanding one's genetic profile can provide valuable information for reaching one's maximum climbing potential, particularly for those aiming to achieve high-level performance.
Endurance Training for Older Climbers
Endurance training for older climbers evolves over time based on training history. In the earlier stages of a climbing career, climbing itself and weekend climbing excursions can provide sufficient endurance training through volume submaximal climbing. However, as climbers age, incorporating specific endurance training becomes crucial. The use of a tread wall with interval training has proven effective, particularly through 30-30 intervals. By climbing all-out for 30 seconds followed by a 30-second rest, climbers can elicit both aerobic and anaerobic systems while maintaining climbing-specific VO2. This type of training is especially beneficial for route climbers and longer boulder problems, contributing to improved climbing performance and skill.
In today's episode, Tom Randall sits down with Eric Hörst, to discuss the changes and needs of the body with age, when climbing and training.
We've been listening to your feedback and understand the importance of addressing training for climbers in their 40s, 50s, and 60s. That's why we're thrilled to have Eric on the show, as he brings a wealth of experience, having trained and performed throughout various stages of life, including his current age of 59.
During this episode, Tom dives deep into Eric's training journey, exploring how his approach has evolved over time. They discuss key topics such as strength and power training, the relevance of endurance training for older athletes, and Eric's effective use of high-intensity interval training. Additionally, they touch upon recovery strategies, including work-to-rest mesocycle lengths, and Eric shares a valuable lesson from his personal nutrition journey.
Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting out, this conversation with Eric Hörst offers practical tips and insights tailored specifically for climbers in their 40s, 50s, and 60s. Tune in to the Lattice Training Podcast as Tom Randall and Eric Hörst guide you through the fascinating world of training for experienced climbers.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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