Aidan Roberts: Training Bulletproof Fingers and Shoulders, Mastering Mindset, and Sending Two New V17s
Jul 3, 2024
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Elite climber Aidan Roberts discusses his struggles and breakthroughs in training, nutrition, tactics, and mental game. He shares insights on finger strength training, the importance of balancing progress and patience in climbing projects, and diving into creative projects like Spotter magazine. The episode also includes discussions on climbing nutrition sponsors, apparel sponsors, and a new belay device, as well as promoting bonus content for patrons.
Aidan Roberts stresses the significance of simplifying climbing training routines for success.
Balancing challenges and skin health is crucial for sustained climbing performance.
Focusing on personal growth over immediate success is essential for overcoming mental obstacles in climbing.
Deep dives
Aiden Roberts on Training Routine
Aiden Roberts shares his training routine focusing on his home board. He dedicates time to maximal boulders for strength and power, followed by fingerboarding sessions and conditioning exercises targeting various muscle groups. Roberts emphasizes the importance of simplifying training routines for climbing success.
Tactical Struggles During Climbing Trips
Roberts discusses the tactical struggles he faces during climbing trips, highlighting skin management as a key challenge. He tends to push his skin too far, leading to issues that affect his climbing performance. Understanding the balance between trying challenges and preserving skin health is crucial for sustained climbing success.
Balancing Projects and Skin Health
When dealing with projects like 'Spots of Time,' close to home, Roberts feels less pressured by time constraints, allowing him to prioritize skin health. In contrast, during trips, the drive to complete a climb can sometimes overshadow the need to preserve skin condition, impacting climbing performance.
The Importance of Simplicity in Climbing Training
Roberts advocates for simplicity in climbing training methods over complex and scientific approaches. He emphasizes the need to adjust training to match specific climbing goals and conditions. Rather than overcomplicating training regimens, Roberts focuses on tailored and adjustable routines for optimal performance.
Mental Challenges During Climbing Projects
Struggling through climbing projects, the speaker shares insights on facing mental hurdles like being too attached to immediate outcomes. Despite using tape for support, leading to difficulties in the final move, the experience taught the speaker the value of detaching from quick success and focusing on broader personal growth.
Psychological Approaches to Climbing Progress
Discussing differences between bouldering and sport climbing progress, the conversation explores how boulderers handle slow progress. It touches on valuing learning over immediate gains, navigating uncertainties in moves, and viewing setbacks as opportunities for growth rather than regression, emphasizing the curiosity and joy in the climbing process.
ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score 10% off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE at checkout.
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
Rungne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
SCARPA: Whether you’re a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. with a commitment to sustainability. Shop the whole collection at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
Petzl NEOX: Take your belay game to the next level. Petzl NEOX is an assisted blocking belay device for the gym and the crag. Ideal for lead climbing, it has an integrated wheel that allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber.
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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