The Sporkful

Reheat: Can A Restaurant Be For Everyone?

Nov 15, 2024
Andy Shallal, an Iraqi-American restaurateur, and Sharikiana Garima, co-founder of Sankofa Video Books and Cafe, discuss the signals restaurants send about inclusivity. Shallal points out how dining spaces often cater to white patrons, leaving Black individuals feeling unwelcome. They explore how ambiance, music, and clientele impact a sense of belonging. Garima shares insights into creating community hubs amidst gentrification, emphasizing the need for cultural representation and the complexities of fostering diverse dining experiences.
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INSIGHT

Comfort and Signals

  • White people are comfortable in most settings, unlike Black people.
  • Black people need signals of welcome in a space.
INSIGHT

Decoding Restaurant Codes

  • Restaurant codes, such as decor, prices, and music, signal the target audience.
  • These codes can create an "us vs. them" dynamic, determining who belongs.
ANECDOTE

Busboys and Poets' Inclusive Menu

  • Andy Shallal intentionally used inclusive language on his menu at Busboys and Poets.
  • Some saw this as pandering, yet the restaurant is one of D.C.'s most integrated spaces.
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