Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio The Life and Death of Gourmet: Ruth Reichl Tells All
Jan 30, 2026
Ruth Reichl, former Gourmet editor-in-chief and memoirist, reflects on the magazine’s glory days, eccentric owners, and its sudden closure. Vicky Benison, food writer and creator of Pasta Grannies, describes finding and filming Italian nonne and rare regional pastas. Short, vivid stories about publishing perks, lost culinary traditions, and behind-the-scenes pasta making.
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Episode notes
Popover Structure Basics
- Let popover batter rest about 30 minutes and preheat the popover pan before baking.
- Remove popovers immediately to a rack and punch a hole in the bottom to release steam and prevent collapse.
Lunch With An Eccentric Publisher
- Ruth Reichl recounts being courted by Condé Nast's Cy Newhouse over lunch and being surprised by his eccentricities.
- She accepted after he promised not to meddle and then genuinely left her editorial independence intact.
Readers Reward Brave Journalism
- Publishing challenging, thoughtful pieces can deepen reader engagement despite fear of backlash.
- Reichl published David Foster Wallace's ethical meditation on eating and received overwhelming praise.
