New Books in Japanese Studies

Russell Thomas, "Tofu: A Culinary History" (Reaktion Books, 2024)

Dec 4, 2024

Russell Thomas, a food and history writer based in Tokyo, discusses the fascinating transformation of tofu from bland vegetarian staple to a celebrated global icon. He delves into its ancient origins, exploring myths and cultural significance across various societies, particularly in Japan and beyond. Thomas shares insights on the myriad varieties of tofu and its surprising historic connection to cheesemaking. Plus, listeners will learn about his upcoming projects, including tofu-inspired music and the culinary traditions of sumo wrestlers.

51:54

Episode guests

Russell Thomas

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Quick takeaways

Tofu, often dismissed as bland, boasts a rich global history that spans cultures and highlights its culinary versatility and significance.

Despite initial skepticism in the West, tofu has successfully transformed into a beloved ingredient through innovation and changing cultural perceptions.

Deep dives

The Evolution and Definition of Tofu

Tofu is essentially curdled soy milk, comparable in process to cheese making. Historically, tofu was described as 'soy cheese' and can be made from various beans, not just soybeans, as indicated by ancient texts. The diverse types of tofu range from silken and firm varieties to unique regional specialties found in different cultures. This variety showcases tofu's versatility, with products like tamago tofu (egg tofu) and walnut tofu stemming from adaptations of the basic tofu-making process.

Intro

2min

The Journey to Tofu: A Culinary Exploration

2min

The Art and History of Tofu

10min

The Mystical Origins of Tofu: A Cultural Journey

5min

Tofu: A Cultural Journey from Japan to the West

26min

Exploring New Creative Ventures: Tofu Soundtrack and Sumo History

3min

To the untrained eye there’s nothing as unexciting as tofu, normally regarded as a tasteless, beige, congealed mass of crushed, boiled soybeans. However, tofu more than stands up on its own. Reviled for decades as a vegetarian oddity, the brave, wobbly block has made a comeback.

Tofu: a Culinary History (Reaktion, 2024) by Russell Thomas is a global history of bean curd stretches from ancient creation myths and tomb paintings, via Chinese poetry and Japanese Buddhist cuisine, to deportations in Soviet Russia and struggles for power on the African continent. It describes the potentially non-Chinese roots of tofu, its myriad types, why ‘eating tofu’ is an insult in Cantonese, and its environmental impact today. Warning: this book actually makes tofu exciting. It’s anything but bland.

This interview was conducted by Dr. Miranda Melcher whose new book focuses on post-conflict military integration, understanding treaty negotiation and implementation in civil war contexts, with qualitative analysis of the Angolan and Mozambican civil wars.

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