Russell Thomas, a food and history writer based in Tokyo, discusses the fascinating transformation of tofu from bland vegetarian staple to a celebrated global icon. He delves into its ancient origins, exploring myths and cultural significance across various societies, particularly in Japan and beyond. Thomas shares insights on the myriad varieties of tofu and its surprising historic connection to cheesemaking. Plus, listeners will learn about his upcoming projects, including tofu-inspired music and the culinary traditions of sumo wrestlers.
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From Cutlets to Tofu
Russell Thomas, a food and history writer living in Tokyo, explains how he came to write Tofu: A Culinary History.
The book's origin lies in a rejected book proposal about cutlets, leading to a surprising offer to write about tofu instead.
insights INSIGHT
Tofu's Diversity
Tofu, like cheese, has diverse forms, not just the common soy version.
Historical texts mention tofu made from various beans, showing soybeans weren't always primary.
insights INSIGHT
Mysterious Origins
Tofu's origin remains unclear despite various legends, much like cheese or bread.
Linguistic analysis hints at a possible independent origin in Sichuan, China, due to unique terminology.
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Russell Thomas's "Tofu, a Culinary History" is a comprehensive exploration of tofu's global journey, from ancient origins to modern culinary trends. The book delves into tofu's diverse forms, cultural significance, and environmental impact. It unravels the myths and legends surrounding its creation, tracing its evolution through various cultures and cuisines. Thomas examines tofu's role in different societies, highlighting its adaptability and enduring appeal. The book offers a fascinating look at how a simple food can hold such profound cultural and historical weight.
To the untrained eye there’s nothing as unexciting as tofu, normally regarded as a tasteless, beige, congealed mass of crushed, boiled soybeans. However, tofu more than stands up on its own. Reviled for decades as a vegetarian oddity, the brave, wobbly block has made a comeback.
Tofu: a Culinary History(Reaktion, 2024) by Russell Thomas is a global history of bean curd stretches from ancient creation myths and tomb paintings, via Chinese poetry and Japanese Buddhist cuisine, to deportations in Soviet Russia and struggles for power on the African continent. It describes the potentially non-Chinese roots of tofu, its myriad types, why ‘eating tofu’ is an insult in Cantonese, and its environmental impact today. Warning: this book actually makes tofu exciting. It’s anything but bland.
This interview was conducted by Dr. Miranda Melcher whose new book focuses on post-conflict military integration, understanding treaty negotiation and implementation in civil war contexts, with qualitative analysis of the Angolan and Mozambican civil wars.