E103: Sean Bailey - Cutting edge climbing, comps and grading
Jun 26, 2024
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World-class climber Sean Bailey chats about climbing competitions, media influence, and grading. They discuss the challenges of competition climbing, evolving landscape of climbing careers and social media, and the influence of media on climbing grading. The conversation also explores the differences in climbing culture and training methods between Japan and the UK, as well as the benefits of cross-training in sport climbing and bouldering.
Social media influencing climbing promotion and marketing decisions.
Grading challenges impacting reputations and media expectations.
Personal biases affecting grading disagreements and community dynamics.
Comp climbers facing skill set transitions and challenges in outdoor climbing.
Deep dives
The Influence of Social Media in Professional Climbing
The impact of social media on professional climbing is highlighted, emphasizing the shift towards self-promotion and the influence of marketing decisions. The focus on social media metrics like views and likes may overshadow long-lasting content and reputation building within the climbing community.
Grading Challenges and Media Influence
Challenges of grading routes and boulders within the climbing community are discussed, including biases towards grading for media attention and the impact of downgrading on professional reputations. The pressure to maintain grades in line with media expectations may conflict with climbers' honest experiences.
Navigating Disagreements in Grading Discussions
The complexity of grading disagreements is explored, where personal opinions and biases play a significant role. The perception of grades as a feature of a climb rather than a personal attack is advocated, along with the subtle dynamics of cosigning grade changes in the climbing community.
Community Dynamics in Climbing Grades
The dynamics of community responses to route grading changes and the coalescence of opinions are examined. The acceptance of grade adjustments and the supportive nature of acknowledging varying perspectives within the climbing community are highlighted as essential aspects of the dialogue around climbing grades.
Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing
Comp climbers transitioning to rock climbing face challenges due to differences in skill sets and training methods. While some may excel quickly on hard boulders, others may struggle with certain rock climbing styles. The technical skills and endurance gained in comp climbing may need to be balanced with patience and prolonged projecting in outdoor climbing.
Advantages of Climbing in Japan
Climbing in Japan offers unique experiences with boutique gyms focusing on hard boulders. The emphasis on high-level setting and the diverse range of climbing styles provide a challenging yet rewarding environment for climbers. The setting at gyms like B-Pump fosters skill development and strength building for climbers, contributing to their overall climbing abilities.
Exploring Outdoor Goals and Climbing Areas
Future outdoor goals include pursuits in South Africa and Mallorca, particularly engaging in deep water soloing. The challenging rock formations in Mallorca present a different climbing experience that fuels the desire for further exploration and progression. The mention of climbing goals demonstrates a keen interest in diverse climbing styles and locations.
This week we were really excited to be joined by Sean Bailey! Sean is one of the world's best climbers. He is right at the cutting edge in both bouldering and sport climbing. We didn't go much into any of that though! We had a general chat about the state of climbing, including comps, grading and media. Definitely one of our 'we do chats not interviews' pods! Hope you enjoy!
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