The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast E162: Darth Grading, climbing ethics and Aidan getting bullied by trad climbers
Aug 20, 2025
Get ready for a lively exploration of climbing's quirks! The hosts tackle the heated debate over gear ethics and question when climbing tools cross the line into cheating. Aidan's antics with trad climbers lead to some hilarious tales. The complexity of grading systems takes center stage, revealing their subjective nature and the challenges involved. Plus, discover the rivalry between bouldering and traditional climbing, and insights on preventing injury through proper training techniques. A mix of humor and deep discussions make this a must-listen!
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Board Strength Doesn’t Guarantee Rock Success
- Board-specific strength doesn't always transfer well to rock because pain tolerance and awkward body positions matter.
- Access and time-on-board explain why board kings emerge from places with easy board access.
Grading Needs Context, Not Just Move Scores
- Objective grading tools like Darth Grader fail because they can't capture linking difficulty and move percentage.
- Grading needs contextual factors (risk, style, link complexity) beyond individual move difficulty.
Don't Grade From One Flash; Use Multiple Sessions
- Avoid grading based on a single flash because luck skews perception.
- Aim for multiple sessions (around three to five) to judge a boulder's true difficulty.