The Recipe with Kenji and Deb Before Kenji and Deb, there was Lena
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Apr 14, 2025 Ashley Rose Young, a historian at the Smithsonian's American Food History Project, dives into the extraordinary life of Lena Richard, a groundbreaking African American chef. Lena rose to fame long before Julia Child, overcoming racial and gender barriers to become a culinary icon in New Orleans. The conversation explores her innovative recipes, including the famous gumbo, and the challenges she faced in a segregated society. Young highlights Lena's enduring legacy and her significant contributions to American culinary traditions.
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Lena's Start
- Lena Richard began working for the Varon family at 14, initially assisting her mother, the family's maid.
- At 19, she cooked dinner for the family, impressing Mrs. Varon, who became her mentor and supported her culinary education.
Cooking School in Boston
- Mrs. Varon sent Lena to the prestigious Mrs. Farmer's School in Boston.
- There, Lena faced segregation, eating separately from white classmates, yet realized her advanced cooking knowledge.
Catering Success
- After returning to New Orleans, Lena started a catering business, known for her unique "Dream Melon" dessert.
- Her talent and reputation grew, catering to the city's elite, particularly with her watermelon ice cream creation.
