E67: Isabelle Faus - 8B+ first ascents, developing in teams and the Colorado scene
Oct 11, 2023
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Isabelle Faus, one of the best boulderers, talks about her boulder development and why her accomplishments have flown under the radar. They discuss climbing sponsorships, the impact of climbing on the environment, gender disparity in bouldering development, and the process of developing new climbing routes. They also touch on the significance of college climbing and the importance of camaraderie in climbing.
The bouldering development community in Colorado embraces a collaborative and creative approach to finding and cleaning new boulders, fostering a sense of camaraderie and sharing amongst climbers.
The lack of female involvement in hard boulder development may be attributed to factors such as fewer incentives for women, a competitive climbing culture driven by grades and achievements, and a greater focus on recognition and financial gain for men.
Barriers to female participation in boulder development could include a lack of incentives and recognition, a traditionally male-dominated climbing culture, and societal norms that discourage women from actively pursuing or participating in boulder development.
Recognizing the contributions of both men and women in boulder development is crucial, as it shapes and expands the possibilities for climbing and fosters a sense of community and shared experiences among climbers.
Deep dives
Community Build and Boulder Development in Colorado
The bouldering development community in Colorado consists of a small group of climbers who are passionate about developing new boulders. This group includes climbers like Chad, Dave, Daniel, and others. They approach boulder development as a fun and creative process, seeking out new areas and cleaning up boulders. There is a sense of camaraderie in this community, with climbers sharing information about new boulders and welcoming others to join in the development process. The focus is on the experience of climbing and adding new climbs to the area, rather than ego or competition.
Limited Female Involvement in Boulder Development
In the realm of hard boulder development, there is a noticeable lack of female involvement. While some women show interest in developing boulders, it is not as prevalent as among men. This disparity might stem from factors such as fewer incentives for women, both in terms of recognition and financial gain, and the competitive nature of climbing, primarily driven by comps and social media following. The focus on grades and achievements might overshadow the less headline-worthy aspect of developing boulders, leading to fewer women actively pursuing this aspect of climbing. However, it is worth noting that some women have made contributions in development, and their efforts deserve recognition.
Barriers to Female Involvement in Boulder Development
The barriers to female involvement in boulder development can be multifaceted. A lack of incentives and recognition, as mentioned earlier, could play a role. Additionally, the climbing culture itself, which has traditionally been male-dominated in the realm of hard climbing and boulder development, might create an environment that is less conducive to female participation. The cultural expectations, societal norms, and the prevalence of men in this space could deter women from actively pursuing or participating in boulder development. Overcoming these barriers may require a shift in cultural attitudes, increased representation and visibility of women in development, and providing more avenues for recognition and support for female climbers.
The Importance of Recognizing Boulder Development
Boulder development plays a crucial role in the climbing community, shaping and expanding the possibilities for climbing. It is important to recognize the efforts of those involved in development, both men and women, as they contribute to the growth and evolution of climbing. The collaborative and creative nature of development fosters a sense of community and shared experiences among climbers. By highlighting the stories and achievements of those involved in boulder development, we can celebrate and appreciate the work that goes into creating new climbs and expanding the climbing landscape.
Importance of Community and Stories in Climbing
The podcast episode discusses the significance of community and storytelling in climbing. The speaker emphasizes the importance of having a strong climbing community and the power of shared stories and experiences. They note that these elements create excitement and investment in climbing, especially in the competition scene. The speaker also mentions the lack of attention and recognition for women in climbing, highlighting the need for more focus on their stories and achievements.
The Joy of Rock Climbing Development
The episode explores the joy of rock climbing development and the fulfillment it brings. The speaker shares personal experiences of developing climbing areas, highlighting the process of finding hidden spots, cleaning the routes, and creating new climbs. They express excitement about encouraging others to engage in development and emphasize the positive impact it has on the climbing community as a whole.
Balancing Climbing Passion and Professionalism
The podcast delves into the balance between climbing passion and professionalism. The speaker reflects on the challenges of being a professional climber and the pressures that come with building a public image and managing sponsors. They express gratitude for being able to climb without the added stress of being a full-time professional, emphasizing the freedom and joy of climbing for passion and personal fulfillment.
We were thrilled to have Isabelle join us for a chat this week. She is one of the best boulderers around and has been responsible for a large amount of boulder development. She has the hardest first ascent by a female to her name, and yet her accomplishments have often seemed to fly slightly under the radar, especially the ones that we thought would have been big news in the climbing world! We chat a little bit about why that might be and also a lot about boulder development, including how the groups she often climbs with keep their projects open and their reputation for being generous with showing others their projects.
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