491: Do You Really Know the Cronut Daddy, Dominique Ansel?
Nov 6, 2024
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Dominique Ansel, the James Beard Award-winning pastry chef behind the iconic Cronut, shares his culinary journey from France to NYC and his innovative dessert creations. He discusses the challenges of adapting to a new culture and the artistry of pastry making. Emma Impavido, Director of Educational Travel Programs, highlights the rising popularity of food-focused travel and the importance of curated experiences for younger travelers. They also tease future culinary adventures, including a trip to Mexico City in 2025!
Dominique Ansel discusses his journey from France to New York, detailing how mentorship shaped his innovative pastry approach and career.
The success of the Cronut illustrates how unexpected trends can arise from a single, well-crafted product and community enthusiasm.
Ansel emphasizes the emotional connections in baking, showcasing how each recipe in his cookbook is tied to personal experiences and community bonds.
Deep dives
The Journey of Dominique Ansel
Dominique Ansel shares his journey from France to New York, highlighting his experiences working with renowned chefs and the evolution of his baking career. After working at Fauchon, Ansel transitioned to a prominent role at Daniel, where he learned the intricacies of fine dining desserts. The transition from a bustling kitchen to establishing his own bakery in Soho in 2011 marked a turning point, as he sought to challenge himself further. This ambition was rooted in his deep desire to create memorable pastries that represented his unique culinary perspective.
The Impact of Service in Restaurants
Ansel discusses the nuances of restaurant service in New York City, noting that quality can vary significantly based on staffing and operational conditions. The expectation of service differs from Europe, where tipping is minimal, while in the U.S., a good tip is often tied to exceptional service. He emphasizes the correlation between employee retention and the quality of service provided, pointing out that despite the industry struggles, he believes service is generally improving. Ansel's own establishments prioritize casual service, balancing speed with quality, which has helped him manage during workforce shortages.
Evaluating Bakeries and Pastry Craft
Ansel expresses a deep appreciation for evaluating bakeries, focusing initially on a bakery's classic offerings like the croissant as a gauge of skill. He acknowledges his meticulous nature when assessing pastries, including a detailed examination of a croissant's lamination and structure. Ansel's dedication is reflected in his daily practice of analyzing his own croissants, underscoring his commitment to perfection. He believes that mastering traditional techniques is essential for any chef aiming to innovate successfully in the realm of pastry.
The Birth of the Cronut
The story of the Cronut illustrates the serendipitous nature of culinary trends, as the pastry was initially intended as a limited Mother's Day offering. Ansel meticulously developed the Cronut's complex dough over several months, but it wasn’t until a friend's blog post went viral that demand skyrocketed. The unexpected community response led to overwhelming lines and frantic production efforts, requiring him to adapt quickly while maintaining product quality. Ansel reflects on the challenges of that time, including hiring security to handle crowds, but he remained committed to authenticity and craftsmanship instead of mass production.
The Heart of Pastry and Personal Connections
Ansel's new cookbook emphasizes the emotional connections tied to baking, focusing on recipes inspired by meaningful life moments. He believes baking serves as a medium for people to express emotions like gratitude, apology, or celebration, reinforcing the sense of community. Each recipe is linked to personal anecdotes or memories, showcasing how food can evoke nostalgia and foster relationships. Ansel's experiences during the pandemic highlighted the significance of local bakeries as community hubs, further solidifying the bond between baking and shared human experiences.
James Beard Award–winning pastry chef Dominique Ansel has shaken up the pastry world with innovation and creativity at the heart of his work. As chef-owner of eponymous bakeries around the world, Ansel has been responsible for creating some of today’s most popular pastries, including the Cronut, the Cookie Shot, the Frozen S’more, and the Blossoming Hot Chocolate. But where did Dominique Ansel come from, and how did his time working with Daniel Boulud and throughout France help him create the most iconic foods of a generation? It’s a great talk with the great Cronut Daddy about his new book, Life’s Sweetest Moments.
Also on the show, Matt has a great conversation with Emma Impavido, Director of Educational Travel Programs at Academic Travel Abroad. Emma and Matt work together on TASTE Travels, and they discuss why organized travel is as popular as ever. They also dig into the countries people are visiting specifically for the food, as well as talk about the upcoming TASTE Travels in 2025, including a spring trip to Mexico City.
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