549: Was There Ever a Bon Appétit vs. Food & Wine Rivalry? Dana Cowin Has Thoughts.
Feb 26, 2025
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In this discussion, Dana Cowin, the former editor-in-chief of Food & Wine and founder of Progressive Hedonist, reflects on her influential role in food media. She shares insights on the magazine's shift to digital and the rise of chefs as cultural icons. Dana reminisces about the Best New Chefs program and its impact on the culinary landscape, celebrating emerging talent and community in food. The conversation also touches on nostalgic dining experiences and the vibrant food scene in New York, from delicious local eateries to artisanal treats.
Dana Cowin played a pivotal role in reshaping food media by placing chefs at the core of culinary storytelling.
The transition of Food & Wine from print to digital highlighted significant challenges in maintaining brand integrity and quality amidst rapid technological changes.
Cowan promotes progressive hedonism, advocating for mindful enjoyment of food while addressing issues like food waste and community connections.
Deep dives
The Craftsmanship of Dijon Mustard
Dijon mustard is highlighted for its rich history and importance in French cuisine, particularly through the work of M.I., a brand that has been crafting Dijon mustard since 1747. The episode emphasizes how this condiment can elevate dishes, transforming everything from everyday sandwiches to gourmet meals. M.I. is portrayed as a brand that meticulously enhances flavors, showcasing how the complexity of mustard can add depth and character to food. This discussion serves to educate listeners on the multifaceted uses of Dijon mustard in culinary practices.
Dana Cowan's Pioneering Influence
Dana Cowan, former editor-in-chief of Food & Wine magazine, is recognized for her significant impact on food media by placing chefs at the forefront of culinary storytelling. During her tenure, she successfully shifted the perception of food from simple sustenance to an essential aspect of lifestyle and culture. Her vision facilitated the rise of the celebrity chef phenomenon, fundamentally altering how culinary figures are portrayed in media. Cowan's emphasis on storytelling through the lens of chefs created a more engaging narrative for food enthusiasts.
Transitioning Food & Wine for Digital Media
Cowan recounts the challenges faced by Food & Wine as it transitioned from print to digital, particularly during the early 2000s. She notes that while the magazine thrived during its golden years, adapting to the fast-paced nature of digital media proved difficult, leading to decisions that sometimes diluted the brand's integrity. Cowan reflects on the struggle to maintain quality and authenticity while chasing traffic and scale in the digital realm, which often did not align with Food & Wine’s traditional brand values. This experience reveals the tension between preserving a media brand's roots and evolving with technological advancements.
The Importance of Community and Locality
Cowan advocates for the idea of progressive hedonism, which emphasizes enjoying life's pleasures while being mindful of their impact on people and the planet. One of her key suggestions is to reduce food waste, which she argues offers a significant opportunity for individuals to make a positive change. Additionally, she emphasizes the value of local connections, encouraging gatherings that foster community through shared meals. This philosophy promotes a holistic approach to consuming food that balances personal enjoyment with social responsibility.
Celebrating the Best New Chefs
Cowan shares her experiences founding the 'Best New Chefs' program, which highlights emerging culinary talents across America. This initiative allowed her team to recognize chefs who were redefining the culinary landscape while also showcasing the diverse food culture in various cities. She reminisces about memorable moments from calling chefs to inform them of their selection, emphasizing the joy and surprise that came with these announcements. This program not only celebrated individual chefs but also reflected the evolving narrative of American cuisine as a whole.
It was incredible to sit down with Dana Cowin, a creative force and an important figure in the history of food media. Dana served as the editor in chief of Food & Wine for over two decades, and she’s the founder of Progressive Hedonist, an organization that looks to find joy in purposeful action. In this episode, we go back to hear about the early days of Food & Wine and how Dana had a vision for placing chefs at the center of a magazine’s coverage. Great idea, Dana. We talk about the magazine’s transition from print to digital and what she finds interesting in the world of cooking and restaurants today.
Also on the show, it’s the return of Three Things where Aliza and Matt discuss what is exciting in the world of restaurants, cookbooks, and the food world as a whole. On this episode: Mariscos el Submarino is opening in Clinton Hill, a visit to Hani's bakery in the East Village, Deep Cutsby Holly Brickley is the 2000s indie rock novel you always wanted, Funny Bar is a new downtown bar, and steak frites spot, from the Baby's Alright folks. Also: Ed Zwick's new Hollywood memoir names the names, Strange Delight is doing a great fish-and-three lunch, and L.A. Burdick Chocolates is a new favorite box of chocolates.
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