Eli Zabar, the owner of gourmet shops and restaurants in NYC, shares insights from his rich culinary journey. He reflects on leaving his family's well-known grocery business to pursue high-quality ingredients inspired by European markets. Eli discusses the art of gourmet sandwich making, showcasing his famous creations like whitefish and pastrami, and emphasizes the importance of fresh ingredients. Additionally, he explores the evolution of American food culture and the sophistication of modern consumers.
Eli Zabar's commitment to sourcing quality ingredients and traditional preparation methods has significantly shaped America's gourmet food culture.
The evolution of consumer food preferences reflects a sophisticated palate, driven by increased media exposure and a desire for high-quality, artisanal products.
Deep dives
The End of an Era
The host announces the impending conclusion of the podcast after over five years of episodes, highlighting the significant connection developed with listeners through hundreds of discussions. As a final celebration, the host seeks listener questions to address in the last episode, emphasizing the show's focus on audience engagement and interaction. This farewell gesture reflects a collaborative spirit, suggesting that the last episode will center on the themes and inquiries that matter most to the audience. The host encourages participants to think creatively about their questions, demonstrating a commitment to providing value until the very end.
Eli Zabar's Culinary Philosophy
Eli Zabar, a pioneer in New York's gourmet food scene, shares insights from his extensive experience in the food industry, highlighting his commitment to quality ingredients and traditional methods. Zabar emphasizes the importance of sourcing from places renowned for their products, such as German cheeses and fresh seafood from Nantucket, which contributes to the distinctive nature of his offerings. His approach involves a philosophy of minimalism, ensuring that dishes highlight the natural flavors of the ingredients without unnecessary embellishments, as demonstrated in his shrimp and whitefish salads. This emphasis on quality over quantity illustrates Zabar's belief that great food begins with unadulterated components that speak for themselves.
A Legacy of Transformation
Zabar's influence on American culinary culture is significant, having mentored notable chefs such as Ina Garten and drawing connections to the rise of a more sophisticated food palate in America. He observes that interest in food has expanded dramatically due to media exposure, leading to a well-informed public that seeks quality and simplicity in their culinary experiences. Zabar notes a shift over the decades, where contemporary tastes reflect an appreciation for high-quality, artisanal ingredients akin to European standards. His reflections on changing consumer behaviors showcase a broader evolution in the food landscape, highlighting increased ethnic blending and a deeper understanding of food among today's cooks and eaters.
Eli Zabar is the youngest son of the Jewish grocery family behind the famed New York food emporium, Zabar’s. Fifty years ago, he left the family business to open his own shop, where he would pursue the “best”: the best breads, cheeses, jams. He was inspired by the markets of Europe and quickly realised that to get the quality he wanted in America, he would have to do a lot of it himself. Eli is now 81 years old, and over the decades, has watched the food scene catch up. Today, Lilah chases him around one of his markets on the Upper East Side, where they make a sandwich, explore what quality food means and reflect on how food culture has changed.
The show is ending in early January. But we want to know your cultural questions! Write to Lilah at lilahrap@ft.com or on Instagram @lilahrap. And – thank you.