9A Mastery: How Will Bosi is Redefining Elite Bouldering
Oct 26, 2024
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Will Bosi, an elite climber known for his impressive second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn, delves into his groundbreaking training techniques and mental strategies in this engaging conversation. He discusses adapting climbing sequences for personal performance and the importance of energy conservation. Will also addresses the subjective nature of climbing grades and the impact of conditions on ascents. Plus, he shares insights on his innovative chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard, designed to optimize grip in challenging environments.
Will Bosi's successful adaptation of climbing beta demonstrates the critical role of personalized technique in overcoming challenging ascents.
His innovative training methods, including creative visualization and energy conservation strategies, highlight the importance of mental preparation in elite bouldering.
Bosi emphasizes the significance of skin care and recovery, showcasing its impact on performance in high-grade climbing challenges.
Deep dives
Will Boese's Recent Ascent
Will Boese recently achieved a significant milestone by completing the second ascent of 'Spots of Time,' showcasing his dedication and skill in climbing. His journey began about a year ago when he first learned about the project, but despite initial enthusiasm, it took several sessions before he truly committed to the climb. During his early attempts, he faced challenges due to fluctuating weather conditions, which often made the boulder problem difficult to access. Nonetheless, he persisted, focusing on training specific to the technical moves required and gradually refining his approach.
Unique Climbing Techniques
Throughout his training, Boese utilized creative visualization techniques to mentally rehearse each move on the boulder. This approach allowed him to build muscle memory without exhausting his skin on repeated attempts at the actual boulder. He emphasized the importance of understanding beta, sharing insights on how varying techniques could potentially change the difficulty of specific moves. As a result, he was able to adapt his method, successfully incorporating heel hooks that suited his climbing style while optimizing his movement on the rock.
Preparations and Mindset
Leading up to his successful ascent, Boese honed his physical and mental preparation strategies, which included a mix of training and rest days tailored for optimal skin recovery. He engaged in sessions that balanced strength training with adequate rest, ultimately allowing him to perform at his peak. Despite attending his girlfriend's birthday party the night before the ascent, he managed to remain focused and mentally present, driving to the climbing site early with a positive attitude. This combination of preparation and a relaxed mindset played a crucial role in his ability to overcome the boulder's challenges.
The Significance of Skin Condition
Throughout the conversation, Boese highlighted skin condition as a critical factor in climbing performance, particularly when tackling high-grade boulders. He discussed the delicate balance between maintaining skin integrity and training effectively, noting how climbers must adapt their strategies to the specific demands of each project. His insights reflected a broader understanding within the climbing community regarding the physical limitations climbers face when attempting difficult routes. Ultimately, proper skin care and recovery were paramount for him throughout his project with 'Spots of Time.'
Future Aspirations in Climbing
Looking forward, Boese expressed keen interest in tackling more challenging projects, including the elusive route 'Excalibur.' His ambition to push the boundaries of climbing continues as he aims to define higher-grade problems within the bouldering realm. Additionally, he plans to explore international climbing destinations like Japan, seeking new challenges that align with his goals. Boese's dedication to climbing and evolving as an athlete is evident in his approach to training and the future opportunities he aims to pursue.
In this special episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with elite climber Will Bosi to discuss his remarkable second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn. Will offers a deep dive into the physical and mental challenges behind his historic climb, sharing the preparation, training strategies, and mindset that helped him send one of the toughest boulders in the world.
Will reveals how he adapted the original sequence for his own climbing style and collaborated with fellow climber Aidan Roberts on beta, making this achievement a true test of both physical endurance and climbing intellect. They also explore Will’s unique approach to training—mimicking moves from the ground to conserve energy and protect skin—and how this method helped him succeed.
In addition, the discussion touches on grading comparisons between other legendary climbs, including Burden of Dreams and Alphane, and Will’s thoughts on pushing the limits of elite bouldering. Will also shares insights on his new chalk brand,Bosi Blizzard, crafted to tackle tough conditions and support endurance on the sharpest holds.
With insights into the mental toughness needed to handle the pressure at the top, and a sneak peek into his future projects, this episode is a must-listen for climbers aiming to understand the mindset behind high-level ascents.
Key Takeaways:
Will Bosi's adaptation of beta and sequence for Spots of Time
Unique training methods to conserve energy and protect skin while preparing for a major project
The mental preparation required for tackling world-class bouldering challenges
How Will’s Spots of Time send compares to other 9As he’s tackled
The evolution of climbing grades, including potential V18 projects
What’s next on Will’s radar, from Japan’s hardest boulders to new UK projects
Tune in now for this exciting discussion on breaking boundaries in the climbing world!
And for Bosi Blizzard checkout https://williambosi.com/
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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