The Inquiry Is it last orders for the wine industry?
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Dec 9, 2025 In this insightful discussion, wine critic Jane Anson reveals how Bordeaux's vineyards are shrinking due to climate shifts and lost demand. Historian Roderick Phillips highlights wine's long cultural history, juxtaposing it with its declining status today. Economist Stefano Castriota examines the impact of tariffs and lifestyle changes on global wine consumption. Meanwhile, consultant Peter McAtamney shares hopeful trends in niche markets and suggests linking wine with gastronomy to reignite interest. Together, they tackle the challenges yet provide a glimpse of resilience in the industry.
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Long-Term Structural Decline In Traditional Regions
- French wine regions like Bordeaux have seen vineyard area shrink from 120,000 to 85,000 hectares over 23 years as producers struggle to sell their wine.
- Jane Anson says this reflects structural change, not a sudden blip, and affects many major wine countries globally.
Use Policy To Manage Oversupply
- Governments may subsidize vine removal to balance supply and prevent price collapse, as France did with a €130m package.
- Jane Anson implies policymakers should support transitions and young winemakers to stabilise the sector.
Wine's Cultural Role Cushions Decline
- Wine historically carried scarcity, ritual and elite status which made it central to ceremonies and religion for millennia.
- Roderick Phillips warns these cultural ties help sustain interest even as consumption falls, creating mixed signals about wine's future.
