Retail editor Cat Chen and e-commerce correspondent Malique Morris delve into the booming $50 billion resale market, discussing its evolution from thrift stores to mainstream platforms. They highlight how consumer convenience has destigmatized secondhand fashion and the role of sustainability in shaping this trend. The conversation explores the challenges established brands face, including changing commission structures and the complexities of navigating online returns. Innovative strategies for reselling unsellable goods are also examined, showcasing a dynamic shift in the fashion industry.
The resale market has transformed into a $50 billion industry in the U.S., fueled by the convenience of online platforms.
Sustainability is a key driver for consumers in resale shopping, despite ongoing challenges in aligning actual impacts with consumer perceptions.
Deep dives
The Rise of Resale Market
The resale market for secondhand clothing has transformed significantly, evolving into a $50 billion business in the US. This growth marks a shift in consumer perception, where many no longer differentiate between new and used items, making resale mainstream rather than a niche interest. This change has been fueled by the increasing ease of buying and selling secondhand items through various online platforms, leading consumers to view resale as a viable alternative to traditional retail. Prominent examples include luxury brand consumers who consider the resale value of high-priced items during their purchases, indicating a robust confidence in this market's dynamics.
The Impact of Sustainability Narratives
Sustainability has become a powerful narrative driving the appeal of resale shopping. Consumers are increasingly motivated by the perception that purchasing secondhand goods is environmentally friendly, even if actual sustainability impacts remain unproven. This narrative can lead to cognitive dissonance, as shoppers express a desire to be sustainable while still supporting fast fashion. Brands that effectively position their resale offerings as sustainable options can appeal to a growing market segment seeking to make more conscious purchasing decisions.
Challenges within the Resale Platform Landscape
The resale market is crowded with platforms competing for consumer attention, lacking a clear market leader. This intense competition results in fluctuating commission structures and pricing strategies, as exemplified by Poshmark's attempt to incentivize sellers by shifting some fees to buyers, resulting in a need to quickly revert the changes after adverse sales impacts. New entrants to the market continually emerge, challenging established players and making it difficult to maintain customer loyalty. As consumers have multiple options, they are more likely to choose platforms that offer the best returns or lowest fees when selling, creating constant pressure within the ecosystem.
Innovations Addressing Returns and Unsellability
Innovative software platforms are emerging to tackle the issue of unsellable inventory caused by online returns, which poses a substantial challenge for brands. Companies like Bazaar and Revive provide solutions that streamline returns and help retailers manage damaged goods, offering resale options for items deemed unsellable. These platforms allow fashion brands to monetize their return goods rather than letting them go to waste, with some focusing specifically on fast fashion items that are often discarded. The growing emphasis on reverse logistics represents a trend where brands are beginning to understand the potential profitability and efficiency offered through more sustainable resale practices.
Resale is no longer confined to thrift stores or niche platforms; it has grown into a roughly $50 billion industry in the U.S. alone, by some measures. Platforms like Poshmark, The RealReal and Vestiaire Collective have transformed the experience, making it more accessible and attractive to consumers at every price point. At the same time, brands are increasingly stepping into the space, with some launching their own programs to resell returned or used merchandise, transforming what was once a reactive practice into a strategic business opportunity. And new start-ups hope to create a new secondhand market out of brands’ returned merchandise.
Retail editor Cat Chen and e-commerce correspondent Malique Morris join senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young and executive editor Brian Baskin to unpack the evolving resale landscape.
Key Insights:
The destigmatization of secondhand fashion is closely tied to convenience. “A large part of the equation is how easy it is to shop and sell secondhand,” explains Chen. “There are dozens of platforms that do peer-to-peer shopping options where you can buy something secondhand for, you know, at a fraction of the cost of retail where you can sell something that you've had for a while.… When resale is top of mind like that, I think the market adapts to that acceptance mentality.”
But establishing a leading position in the market has proven difficult, despite rapid adoption. “The learning for operators of these platforms is that there’s very little consumer loyalty in this space,” says Chen. “When I consider selling something, I’m going to look at every single platform - whichever one gives me the quickest sale, the easiest sale, and the most money.” This dynamic has created a fiercely competitive landscape, with platforms racing to attract sellers by offering the best incentives.
Bazar is taking a different approach to resale, stocking its marketplace with returned, goods brands would struggle to restock without refurbishment, including some fast fashion. “Bazar doesn’t go through the trouble of necessarily fixing items. It’s kind of listed as is, and customers get a ‘what you see is what you get’ experience,” says Morris. Additionally, Bazar allows fast fashion brands like Cider to offload inventory, which many traditional resale platforms avoid. “There is a level of transparency there which is supposed to be a part of the proposition of sustainability and a part of the proposition of resale as well.”
As the industry develops, Morris envisions brands taking more ownership of resale, as platforms like Revive are already helping brands create their own resale programs to handle returned merchandise. Such efforts could turn resale into a sustainable, profitable venture, making it a key part of brand operations. “If resale can prove that it is an avenue for [brands] to achieve profitability … I can see it becoming a bigger priority brands which will make the shopping experience all the better for consumers."