Money Talks: The Rise and Fall of Victoria’s Secret
Nov 12, 2024
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Lauren Sherman, a fashion correspondent at Puck, and Chantal Fernandez, a features writer for The Cut, dive deep into the rise and fall of Victoria's Secret. They discuss the brand's innovative founding, which transformed lingerie shopping into a welcoming experience. The conversation shifts to its decline due to changing consumer preferences and controversies surrounding body image. They also explore how cultural shifts post-MeToo are redefining the brand's identity and the challenges it faces in rebuilding genuine connections with modern consumers.
Victoria's Secret emerged as a pioneering retail force by transforming the traditionally intimidating lingerie shopping experience into a comfortable environment.
The brand's decline was driven by shifting cultural values, highlighting the need for inclusivity and authenticity in today's fashion landscape.
Deep dives
Origins of Victoria's Secret
Victoria's Secret was founded in 1977 by Roy and Gay Raymond, who aimed to create a comfortable shopping environment for lingerie. The inspiration came when Roy realized that the existing shops for adult products were intimidating and unwelcoming. Observing a market opportunity, he transitioned from selling vibrators to launching a lingerie catalog that provided a more approachable and aesthetically pleasing selection. This innovative approach allowed Victoria's Secret to emerge as a pioneering retail brand amidst the rigid structure of traditional department stores.
Lex Wexner's Influence
Lex Wexner played a crucial role in rescuing Victoria's Secret from financial difficulties in the early 1980s. Known as a retail revolutionaire, Wexner's acquisition of the company enabled him to apply his expertise in specialty retail, which significantly disrupted traditional department store models. His focus on fast fashion and efficient production, including sourcing from abroad, allowed Victoria's Secret to flourish by quickly identifying and meeting consumer demands. This approach positioned the brand as a leader in the lingerie market and established it as a cornerstone of Wexner’s broader retail empire.
The Evolution of Marketing and Imagery
Victoria's Secret's marketing strategies evolved over the decades, notably through their iconic catalog, which became a significant aspect of their brand identity. The catalog's portrayal of idealized femininity and evolving representation of models mirrored changing cultural attitudes toward sexuality. Notably, the introduction of the 'Angels' model represented a more overtly sexualized marketing approach in the 2000s, resonating with mainstream beauty standards. However, this shift raised questions about the balance between empowerment and objectification, highlighting the complex dynamics of consumer perception in the lingerie market.
Challenges and Cultural Shifts
As cultural values shifted, Victoria's Secret faced significant backlash for its outdated image and marketing strategies. The rise of body positivity movements and competition from brands embracing diversity led to a decline in the company's relevance, compounded by controversies surrounding executives like Ed Razek. The transition from a dominant retail force to a brand in search of identity reflected broader trends in consumer behavior and expectations for inclusivity. As the company navigates this new landscape, its future hinges on adapting to evolving consumer preferences and redefining what the brand represents in today's fashion environment.
In this Money Talks: how did Victoria’s Secret go from hot to not? Emily Peck is joined by Lauren Sherman and Chantal Fernandez, authors of Selling Sexy: Victoria’s Secret and the Unraveling of an American Icon to discuss the origins of the ubiquitous bra retailer, its role in the rise of fast fashion, and how the brand successfully reflected the culture–until it suddenly didn’t.
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Podcast production by Jessamine Molli and Cheyna Roth.