Will Jana Švecová be the first woman to boulder 9A/V17?
May 25, 2024
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Join Jana Švecová, a determined climber aiming to conquer the elusive Terranova boulder problem. She shares insights on setting goals, overcoming doubts, finding joy in climbing, and adapting to challenges. From pushing limits in cold weather to embracing training transitions, her journey inspires climbers to trust the process and reignite their passion for the sport.
Setting goals fuels progress in climbing for Jana Švecová, aiming to conquer the challenging Terranova boulder problem.
Trusting oneself and maintaining a positive mindset are crucial for Jana Švecová to overcome doubts and handle criticism while pursuing climbing goals.
Deep dives
Jana Svekova's Climbing Journey and Motivation
Jana Svekova shares her climbing journey, detailing her break from elite competition climbing and the subsequent return to bouldering. After achieving goals such as climbing 8B and 8B+ boulders, she embarked on a long-term project targeting the challenging Terranova (8C+), showcasing her commitment and dedication to pushing her limits in climbing.
Training Progress and Mental Approach to Challenging Projects
Svekova discusses her training with Lattice Performance, highlighting the significant improvements made within a short period. She reflects on her mental game, handling pressure when projecting difficult climbs like Terranova. By trusting the training process and maintaining a positive mindset, she overcomes doubts and continues to progress towards her climbing goals.
Navigating Weather Conditions and Outdoor Climbing Challenges
Adapting to various weather conditions, Svekova recounts dealing with challenges during climbing trips, including illness and unfavorable climbing conditions. She shares strategies like using a gas heater to combat the cold and adjusting climbing trips to ensure optimal conditions for projecting hard climbs like Terranova.
Climbing Preferences and Ideal Style
Revealing her climbing preferences, Svekova highlights her strengths in climbing, favoring crimps and undercuts while avoiding small pockets to prevent injury risk. She describes Terranova as her ideal style and shares her love for challenging climbs in overhanging terrain with small crimps, showcasing her expertise in tackling demanding boulder problems.
Join us for an inspiring podcast with Jana Švecová, an accomplished climber who is currently pushing her limits on the boulder problem Terranova, which was established by Adam Ondra in the Czech Republic back in 2011, it’s currently graded 8C+/V16, and with no repeats, it’s rumoured it could be 9A/V17. Jana's dedication and goal-oriented mindset have propelled her to become one of the strongest female boulderers in the world. In this episode, she shares valuable insights on setting and achieving goals, dealing with pressure and criticism, and finding joy in the process.
Topics include:
Setting and achieving goals in climbing: Jana discusses the significance of setting goals and how it has fueled her progress.
Trusting yourself and overcoming doubts: How Jana has dealt with doubts and criticism from others throughout her climbing journey. She shares her strategies for staying focused, trusting her abilities, and not letting external opinions hinder her.
Finding your own fun in climbing: She shares her perspective on what brings joy in climbing and the variety of challenges it offers.
Challenges and rewards of climbing in cold weather: Her experiences climbing in different weather conditions and insights on preparing and adapting to these challenges.
Embracing adaptability during climbing trips: Climbing trips don't always go the way you expect, Jana explores the importance of adaptability, maintaining a positive mindset, and finding opportunities for growth even when faced with obstacles.
Exploring the climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic: It’s hidden gems!
Join us in today's episode where Jana Švecová shares her passion for climbing, her personal insights, and her excitement for future climbing projects.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Listen to the best highlights from the podcasts you love and dive into the full episode