The Struggle Climbing Show
Dr. Tyler Nelson: Pro Clinic on Building Endurance for Bouldering and Sport Climbing
Nov 20, 2024
Dr. Tyler Nelson, an expert in climbing training and performance, shares his insights on building endurance for bouldering and sport climbing. He discusses innovative methods like Blood Flow Restriction and the importance of tailored training for individual energy systems. Listeners learn how to enhance aerobic conditioning through alternative exercises such as biking and rowing. Tyler also covers off-season versus on-season programs and specific recovery strategies, empowering climbers to optimize their performance and reduce injury risks.
45:27
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Quick takeaways
- Climbers must distinguish between endurance and capacity, as tailored training is crucial for optimizing performance and reducing injury risk.
- Incorporating off-wall training methods, like low-impact aerobic conditioning, helps enhance recovery and overall climbing performance without overloading fingers.
Deep dives
Targeted Capacity Training for Climbers
Effective capacity training interventions in climbing can enhance performance while reducing injury risk. Specific focus on volume and intensity during training can lead to better adaptations, especially when tailored to the individual climber's needs. For instance, sport climbers may benefit from endurance training that includes longer sessions on the wall, while boulderers might require shorter, more intense bursts of effort. By identifying the energy systems needed for each climbing style, climbers can optimize their training routines for specific climbing goals.
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