The Struggle Climbing Show

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Pro Clinic on Building Endurance for Bouldering and Sport Climbing

10 snips
Nov 20, 2024
Dr. Tyler Nelson, an expert in climbing training and performance, shares his insights on building endurance for bouldering and sport climbing. He discusses innovative methods like Blood Flow Restriction and the importance of tailored training for individual energy systems. Listeners learn how to enhance aerobic conditioning through alternative exercises such as biking and rowing. Tyler also covers off-season versus on-season programs and specific recovery strategies, empowering climbers to optimize their performance and reduce injury risks.
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ADVICE

Off-Wall Aerobic Training

  • Reduce finger stress by doing aerobic capacity training off the wall.
  • Use an Airdyne bike, rowing machine, or elliptical for similar adaptations.
INSIGHT

Systemic vs. Localized Endurance

  • Systemic aerobic fitness benefits climbing more than localized forearm endurance.
  • Combine systemic activities with light forearm work for optimal adaptation.
ADVICE

Combined Endurance Training

  • Combine low-intensity hand gripping with activities that elevate heart rate.
  • This simultaneous approach improves capillary clearance and oxygen diffusion.
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