The Daily

Our Restaurant Critics Dish

185 snips
Nov 9, 2025
Ligaya Mishan, a New York Times restaurant critic with a rich background in food culture, and Tejal Rao, an award-winning food writer covering culinary trends on the West Coast, dive deep into their lives as critics. They discuss the importance of transparency in their identities, how they choose restaurants across the U.S., and the challenge of writing negative reviews. The duo also shares insights on staying healthy while indulging in food, favorite meals, and the ongoing debate of L.A. versus New York dining.
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ANECDOTE

Unexpected Path To Criticism

  • Ligaya Mishan became a food writer almost by accident after moving to New York and writing short book reviews at The New Yorker.
  • She transitioned to restaurant reviews there and later joined The New York Times.
ANECDOTE

Global Upbringing Shaped Her palate

  • Tejal Rao grew up in a food-obsessed, South Asian family and moved across countries, learning to cook in France as a child.
  • She worked in kitchens and published early restaurant pieces before becoming a critic at the Village Voice in 2012.
INSIGHT

Transparency Over Mystery

  • Ligaya argues anonymous critics were largely a fiction because restaurants often recognized reviewers anyway.
  • She says openness can build trust and help readers judge critics' perspectives.
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