Jacobin Radio

Dig: Menswear and the World System w/ Derek Guy

23 snips
May 30, 2025
Joining is Derek Guy, menswear writer and author of Dye Workwear, known for his insights on style and fashion's socio-economic ties. He delves into the complex history of menswear, revealing how the industry mirrors capitalism and cultural shifts. The conversation travels through the evolution of dandyism within the Black diaspora, the influence of fast fashion, and the changing ideals of masculinity through tailoring. Derek critiques the commercialized landscape of menswear blogging, emphasizing authenticity and personal expression amidst overwhelming consumer choices.
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INSIGHT

Evolution of the Modern Suit

  • The lounge suit rose as a humble, practical alternative to the formal frock coat, signaling emerging bourgeois values.
  • Dress reflected political liberalism's emphasis on modesty, propriety, and class signaling, replacing aristocratic extravagance.
INSIGHT

Fashion’s Imperial and Slavery Roots

  • Western menswear and textile production have deep ties to slavery and imperialism, notably with cotton and British colonialism.
  • Yet Black dandies appropriated and transformed these vestiges into their own cultural statements.
ANECDOTE

Madras Fabric’s Preppy Path

  • Brooks Brothers popularized Indian madras cloth in the US, leading to its identity as a preppy summer staple.
  • The fabric's characteristic bleeding dye became a marketed feature, linked to its handmade, naturally dyed origins.
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