Wild Ideas Worth Living

Life Lessons from Big Wave Surfing with Shane Dorian

Sep 5, 2023
Shane Dorian, a legendary surfer with a career spanning over 30 years and multiple Big Wave Awards, shares his inspiring journey. He discusses the thrilling switch from competitive surfing to big waves, emphasizing mental preparation techniques like breath work. Shane reflects on parenting young surfers, highlighting enjoyment over pressure. He underscores life lessons learned from surfing, such as gratitude and connection with others. Lastly, he encourages embracing adventure and maintaining physical health as we age.
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