Wild Ideas Worth Living
Life Lessons from Big Wave Surfing with Shane Dorian
Sep 5, 2023
Shane Dorian, a legendary surfer with a career spanning over 30 years and multiple Big Wave Awards, shares his inspiring journey. He discusses the thrilling switch from competitive surfing to big waves, emphasizing mental preparation techniques like breath work. Shane reflects on parenting young surfers, highlighting enjoyment over pressure. He underscores life lessons learned from surfing, such as gratitude and connection with others. Lastly, he encourages embracing adventure and maintaining physical health as we age.
26:04
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Quick takeaways
- Shane Dorian highlights the significance of mental preparation in big wave surfing, utilizing breathing techniques and visualization to manage fear and anxiety.
- Through his life-threatening experiences, Shane emphasizes the importance of gratitude and living fully, cherishing connections with others in high-risk environments.
Deep dives
Shane Dorian's Surfing Journey
Shane Dorian began his surfing journey at a young age, growing up in Kona, Hawaii, where he developed a deep connection to the ocean. After winning his first surf contest at just 11 years old, he joined the World Surf League at 21, traveling the world and competing against surf legends like Kelly Slater. His transition to big wave surfing came after a period of intense competition, where he felt burnt out and uninspired, prompting him to chase larger waves instead. This shift allowed Shane to redefine his passion for surfing, earning him numerous accolades and a reputation as one of the greatest big wave surfers of his generation.
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