Life Lessons from Big Wave Surfing with Shane Dorian
Wild Ideas Worth Living
From Competition to Big Waves
This chapter explores the transition from competitive surfing to the exhilarating world of big wave surfing, highlighting personal anecdotes and early training experiences. It emphasizes the mental preparation required, discussing techniques like breath work and visualization to confront fear and enhance performance in high-risk scenarios. The speakers reflect on overcoming challenges and share humorous moments, showcasing the blend of thrill and resilience in their surfing journey.
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