Life Lessons from Big Wave Surfing with Shane Dorian
Wild Ideas Worth Living
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Intro
This chapter delves into the formative years of a famous professional surfer, detailing his childhood in Kona and the experiences that ignited his passion for surfing. It highlights the significance of a family-run beachside restaurant in nurturing his early connection with the ocean and the unforgettable thrill of his first surfing adventure.
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