Invent and Embrace Authenticity

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Mobutu, the dictator of Zaire, believed in the importance of authenticity in clothing. He transitioned from wearing western suits to creating his signature outfit known as the abocost, inspired by Chinese attire. The abocost, a blend of a blazer and a dress shirt with unique elements, symbolized a rejection of the European suit and tie. This outfit became the official office uniform in Zaire, showcasing Mobutu's emphasis on a new national dress code centered around authenticity.

Hailing from central African cities of Brazzaville and Kinshasa, sapeurs have become increasingly recognizable around the world. Since the 1970s, sapeurs (from: le sape, short for "Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes") have been known for donning technicolored three-piece suits with flamboyant accessories like golden walking sticks and leopard-print fedoras, and then cat-walking through their city streets.

In recent years, Solange, Kendrick and SZA have all featured sapeurs in their music videos. The iconic British menswear designer Paul Smith did a whole spring line of sapeur-inspired suits and bowler hats.

The Society of Ambiance Makers and Elegant Persons