The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast cover image

TBP 257: Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Tyler Nelson

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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Efficiency over Numbers

Focusing on the adaptation rather than the specific numbers in training is crucial. An example illustrated how enhancing passive connectivity through efficient muscle contraction can lead to better performance. Emphasizing off-the-wall capacity training and finger endurance can provide more consistent stress on the fingers, compared to climbing on a wall, highlighting the importance of using alternative methods like a tread wall with a metronome for endurance testing in climbing.

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